Activities and Adventure

“YES! I’m IN” screamed my enthusiastic reply to Amy and Juan’s question: Will you go sailing with us? Does a pirate like rum? Do fish swim in the sea? Sign me up, baby! Next stop: heaven on a catamaran. 

Over the last year, I had followed Amy and Juan’s exceptional sailing trips. They would invite a lucky group of friends to explore Thailand by sailboat. I’d seen pictures showcasing carefree grins as they lounged on deck while their boat cut across the waves. They walked windswept shores covered in Jurassic boulders and climbed palm trees on deserted beaches.  Once they traded street clothes for bikinis and board shorts, their days became balmy breezes and exotic locations. Take me there

If you have the heart for sailing, then the world becomes magic. Everyday life disappears the further you get from land. Once you board a boat, your perspective changes to nature, weather, teamwork, and adventure. 

Ten years ago, I joined my first sailing trip. I arrived at work on a Monday and impulsively booked a sailing trip in Greece. I’d already visited Greece twice, but sailing the Cyclades Islands changed my life. There was a certain skip in my walk after Greece. Now, I always find time for sailing whether it’s an afternoon aboard a historical schooner in San Francisco, a week on a luxury catamaran in the British Virgin Islands, or a sunset sail in Redondo Beach with a racing team. 

This time it was Thailand. Amy and Captain Juan planned our week-long sailing trip like clockwork. I received the itinerary, packing list, and details. The week before departure, Juan started sending us breath-taking photos of our destinations. Wow – what a way to build excitement! 

Our crew of eight people met in Phuket on a Saturday. Everyone was fun, outdoorsy, efficient, and laid-back. The perfect group. Amy booked a villa and organized rental cars, which were important for airport transfers, grocery shopping, logistical tasks, and transportation. 

On Sunday, we split the grocery shopping and marina check-in duties. Two rental cars were handy! Afterwards, we left the rental cars at the marina where the car service collected them. Easy breezy. Our boat was a 2016 Catamaran Nautitech-40 Open named Jetset which we rented through Sweet Dreamers Yacht Charters www.sweetdreamerscharter.com. It had a kayak and motorized dingy for exploring. 

Life is different aboard a sailboat. Our mornings began at sunrise near a beautiful cove or island where we had moored overnight. Some people slept outdoors on deck. Others took the cabins. What a beautiful way to start the day! Captain Juan prepared for departure. Tom made coffee with his fancy coffee pot which we nicknamed Alicia (pronounced with an Italian accent!). Jak and Tabbi competed to make perfect pancakes. Jan kayaked while Natalie jumped overboard for a swim. Amy set the table while I scurried around taking pictures. After breakfast, we set off for new places – coves, caves, deserted beaches, hidden lagoons, and popular sites. We’d drop anchor offshore then pile into the dingy where we’d arrive like windswept bohemians. There is such a rakish beauty to traveling by sailboat. You feel alive. 

Sailing is about teamwork and group dynamics. Your crewmates create the trip just as much as the destinations. Everyone has a story to tell. These are our stories…

Juan Estrada // Spanish // Architect 

Cooking. Photography (IG: @juancarlosestradagomez). Gardening.

I grew-up by the seaside in Malaga, Spain. My father, a yacht captain, introduced me to sailing. I eventually got my skipper’s license. I love hosting friends and creating experiences, whether that happens at home or at sea. I’m lucky to spend several weeks each year on sailing trips. In Europe, it was mainly in the Mediterranean Sea, including Balearic Islands (Spain), Ionian Islands, Saronic Islands (Greece), and Dalmatian Islands (Croatia). 

Since moving to Thailand in 2017, Amy and I have organized three sailing trips around Koh Samui and Phuket. Unlike Spain in the summer, Thailand doesn’t have busy boat traffic. Thailand’s boat density per beach is low making it ideal for sailing. When you travel by boat, you can access secluded spots. Paradise becomes exclusively for you. 

For this trip, I based our route upon meteorological conditions, seasonal weather, and a progressive wow-factor. We started by visiting caves in Ao Phang Nga National Park, limestone formations in Krabi, snorkeling in Koh Phi Phi Islands, and more. I engaged the crew in daily destination decisions and added flexibility for group choices.

When planning a sailing trip, I recommend securing a crew first. Most people like the idea of a sailing trip, but few can commit. Next, contact several yacht charters for boat options and prices. If you don’t have a skipper’s license, then hire a bareboat with skipper. The skipper facilitates the boat and route so you can relax. Need someone to buy groceries and cook meals? Then hire a hostess. For our trip, we preferred to do everything ourselves, but it’s nice to have options.

Juan’s Tips 

1- Provisioning: Don’t over-buy groceries. Schedule both onshore dining and onboard meals. 

2- Avoid heavy luggage. Include a headlamp and nautical footwear. (i.e. anti-slip aqua shoes for rocky coastlines)

3- Respect the sea. Be conscious of obstacles in the boat and outside. For example, be aware of currents when you swim, rocks, sea urchins, jellyfish, and waves when approaching the beach in a dingy.

Amy Patcharaporn Anantasuk // Thai // Real Estate

Travel. Photography. Movies. 

This is my third sailing trip with Juan. I feel happy seeing people enjoy their first sailing experience, especially because most people are as excited as me! When planning the trips, Juan’s expertise is chartering and managing the boat. I handle everything else from securing flights, rental cars, villas, and crew members to planning groceries and meals. In addition to managing the group’s accounting and expenses, I’m also the boat’s DJ with my playlist.

Sailing is lots of fun, but it’s important to act responsibly. At the beginning of each trip, we brief everyone on proper protocol. This crew had solid sailing and outdoor experience which made it easy. We discuss topics such as conserving the boat’s limited water supply and acting safely. Sailing is not a joke. If you get injured, we are far from land. We also train the crew on launching and driving the dingy. It makes them feel integrated in daily tasks and gives them freedom to go ashore.

I love each trip especially because I’m building my sailing skills. I’m on a learning curve and I’m more aware of everything. I’ve learned sailing essentials such as driving the dingy and maneuvers like setting-up sails, pulling ropes, dropping anchor, and securing the boat to a mooring buoy. I plan to study for my skipper’s license soon. When I’m on a boat, my mind shuts off from the everyday world. I recharge in the open air. It’s a special time where I see my life from a different perspective. I feel free.

Amy’s Tips

1- Enjoy each moment to the fullest! Savor the freedom and fun because these trips fly by. 

2 – Choose a smart combination of crew members. Teamwork is essential. Make sure that personalities match otherwise, it could be explosive. 

3- Most charter boats have a Cruising Guide with reference maps, nautical warnings, destination tips, and onshore dining guide. They are a great resource. 

Jak Drinnan // British //Architect

Kitesurfing, Sculptural Art, Sailing

This was my second sailing trip with Captain Juan and Amy. I joined the previous trip to Koh Samui, Koh Phangan, and Koh Tao in June 2019. They were both incredible trips, however I felt more prepared for the experience this time around. We also had a bigger crew which brought a better dynamic. The boat was fantastic. Everything was provided. The hardest part was leaving at the end! 

I would encourage others to join a sailing trip because it’s a unique way to experience a destination. You have the ultimate freedom to come and go on your own time You can also avoid the crowds. Thailand is beautiful. There are pristine beaches and exceptional ocean landscapes where vertical limestone cliffs emerge from tropical blue sea. It is quite special waking-up in the morning surrounded by nature. We were usually alone in stunning national parks before the tour boats arrived.

My favorite place was Monkey Beach in Koh Phi Phi. It’s the closest thing I’ve ever seen to a perfect beach. Koh Racha Noi is located just south of Phuket. It had the best snorkeling I’ve experienced in Thailand. I plan to return for scuba diving later this year. 

Jak’s Tips:

1 – Pack your bag as normal, then remove 80% of your stuff because you won’t need any of it!

2 – Cover-up during peak daytime hours. It’s easy to burn, especially when the sun reflects off the ocean.

3 – Wear proper footwear. A few barefoot days working on the boat can absolutely ruin your feet!

Jak Drinnan // British //Architect

Kitesurfing, Sculptural Art, Sailing

This was my second sailing trip with Captain Juan and Amy. I joined the previous trip to Koh Samui, Koh Phangan, and Koh Tao in June 2019. They were both incredible trips, however I felt more prepared for the experience this time around. We also had a bigger crew which brought a better dynamic. The boat was fantastic. Everything was provided. The hardest part was leaving at the end! 

I would encourage others to join a sailing trip because it’s a unique way to experience a destination. You have the ultimate freedom to come and go on your own time You can also avoid the crowds. Thailand is beautiful. There are pristine beaches and exceptional ocean landscapes where vertical limestone cliffs emerge from tropical blue sea. It is quite special waking-up in the morning surrounded by nature. We were usually alone in stunning national parks before the tour boats arrived.

My favorite place was Monkey Beach in Koh Phi Phi. It’s the closest thing I’ve ever seen to a perfect beach. Koh Racha Noi is located just south of Phuket. It had the best snorkeling I’ve experienced in Thailand. I plan to return for scuba diving later this year. 

Jak’s Tips:

1 – Pack your bag as normal, then remove 80% of your stuff because you won’t need any of it!

2 – Cover-up during peak daytime hours. It’s easy to burn, especially when the sun reflects off the ocean.

3 – Wear proper footwear. A few barefoot days working on the boat can absolutely ruin your feet!

Andrew James // British // Property

Swimming. Chess. Sailing 

This is my second trip with Captain Juan and Amy. Last year, I joined their trip around Koh Samui. This trip had better landscape, easier sailing conditions, and calmer sea. On our previous trip, the sea was rougher with the occasional storm which added to the excitement. 

If you’re interested in entry-level sailing, then Thailand is the best in the region. It offers excellent routes, marinas, and charter sailing. I enjoy these trips because I can practice my sailing skills. I assisted with various maneuvers such as helping navigate through marinas, raising sails, mooring to buoys, and anchoring. Catamarans are fun cruiser boats. One perk was that Jetset had a water-maker meaning we didn’t need to re-fill our water tanks at marinas. That was great because the only floating pontoon along our route was at Koh Phi Phi which wasn’t convenient to reach.  

One of my favorite places was Koh Racha Noi where I snorkeled in the clearest water I’ve ever seen. Alternatively, my least favorite place was a creepy bat cave we explored by dingy and kayak. We tried to reach a hidden lagoon through a sea cave with a colony of bats perched above us.  It’s important to be open-minded when experiencing nature, but I was glad to leave that cave! I encourage others to go sailing. In addition to great times, any beach you’ve ever visited feels completely different when you arrive by boat. There is always something new to discover.

Tom’s Tips:

1. Don’t get drunk the night before boarding a boat, otherwise you’ll surely get seasick. 
2. The day-to-day jobs on the boat are great exercise, so don’t be afraid to jump in and help.
3. Buy full-length UV-protective clothing. The sun is merciless. 

Natalie Chelliah // British // Architect & Interior Architect 

Fitness. Yoga. Baking.

Last summer I joined my first catamaran trip with Captain Juan and Amy. That trip was amazing because we explored off-the-beaten-track islands and even squeezed in a diving trip. However, this recent trip around Phang-Nga Bay and beyond blew me away. We had a bigger group, better boat, and more jaw-dropping scenery. I wanted to stay longer! I appreciated the variety of places and our fun, adventurous group. The beaches were paradise. Everywhere was quiet. We had many places to ourselves.

This trip was full of highlights. We explored islands by dingy, kayak, and snorkeling. Relaxing on the empty beaches was priceless. It was my first time to visit beautiful Krabi and Railay Beach. Next time, I’ll trek to Railay’s viewpoint. We also moored at Phi Phi Islands’ Monkey Beach – a secluded beach that is empty except for day-trippers. Once everyone left, the beach was ours. We didn’t see any monkeys, but it had the softest sand. We swam in crystal clear water with towering karst cliffs as our backdrop. I’ll never forget it.

If you join a sailing trip, remember to be flexible because things can change. For example, our catamaran’s power system was broken resulting in no air conditioning. The first night I couldn’t sleep because it was too hot below deck, but once we adjusted the fans and cabin’s natural air flow, it was fine. Despite the air-conditioning, this boat was an upgrade from our last catamaran. It was newer, more spacious, and had a better floorplan. It was very comfortable! Now, the only way is up, so I hope we get the best boat for our next trip!

Natalie’s Tips:

1. 1. Pack light! You’ll wear less outfits than you think. Most of the time you wear a bikini and shorts. 
2. Bring a couple card games for the evenings. We enjoyed Code Name.
3. Bring a drone if you have one! Captain Juan captured many scenic moments with his drone.

Jan Hempel // German // Project Manager Timber Construction

Traveling. Hiking. Skiing. Sailing

Sailing in Thailand is wonderful because of the warm, sunny weather. You can stay outside all night. Even the rain is warm! There is diverse scenery with rocks for snorkeling, lonely beaches to relax, shady forests for a walk, and busy cities to go out.

Although this trip had almost no wind which limited our ability to use the sails, it had the most sightseeing, activities, and fun. I really enjoyed it! This trip also had the biggest and best crew I’ve joined so far. We had a good mixture of interesting, easy going, and funny people. I appreciated how nicely everyone fit together and got along.

I’ve been sailing for about ten years. In Germany, I co-own a vintage sailboat, a 1972 Hallberg Mistral 33 named Elouise. I’ve enjoyed regular sailing in the Baltic Sea, Netherlands, and Croatia. The mixture of planning, action, and calm moments is exciting. I love the silence and freedom. This was my first time onboard a catamaran, which are more spacious and steadier than monohull boats. Jetset was perfect for eight people. 

I loved the variety of places along our route. We explored sea caves with interesting rock formations and hidden lagoons. We visited Koh Phi Phi’s party beach where we drank buckets of gin and tonic. We even had James Bond Island to ourselves between tourist boats. Another fun moment was our catamaran day party. The weather was perfect. Jak made Cuba Libres and Mojitos. We hung out, listened to music, and laughed. Life was great. We were grateful for this experience.

Jan’ Tips:

1.) If you are new to sailing, start with short trips and slow wind. This helps you adjust to the movements in calmer conditions. 

2.) Be flexible with your crew because you are a team. You’ll share small spaces, cooking duties, bathrooms, and decision-making. 

3.) If your boat has a galley or indoor area, stay outside to avoid sea sickness. Look at the horizon to help your body adjust to the swaying.

Jetset’s Sailing Itinerary

Sunday – Phuket – Phang-Nga Bay. Explore caves and hongs.
Monday – Phang-Nga Bay: James Bond Island – Koh Roí – Koh Yao Noi -Koh Pak Bia
Tuesday – Hong Island – Railay Beach. Party in Ao Nang
Wednesday – Koh Pu – Bamboo Island. Party in Koh Phi Phi
Thursday – Koh Phi Phi – Phiphi Lae (Maya Bay)
Friday – Racha Noi – Racha Yai for snorkelling
Saturday – Koh Rang Yai Kai – Koh Naka
Sunday – Return to Phuket Heaven Marina

We start off on a good note – abundant joy. A rhythmic beat to our step and a song in the heart; we are en route to the airport to catch a Druk Air flight to Paro, in the land of mystical mountains, Bhutan. Splendour awaited us, we were told.

Our excitement is palpable and quickly transfers to each member. We are airborne.

As usual, I have done no homework and left it all to destiny. I so firmly subscribe to travelling to a place fresh, unstudied, and ready for the newness of it all. It works sometimes, and occasionally it doesn’t. Drukpa Kagyu (Mahayana) Buddhism is the state religion, I have known. As an ism, it has always drawn me, and my philosophies have meandered around karma, Sutras propagated by Lord Buddha, and the allure of timelessness has fascinated me. My noble thoughts are rudely broken as a child prods me hard. I turn and view the snow capped ranges. I stare at Divinity, my heart pounding. I automatically fish out my mobile. And yes, I manage a few blurred shots which are good enough to put a spring to my already overworked heart. They pass by all too soon, and I resettle I am a huge sharer – I like sharing it all. Bhutan beckoned.

We land. We emerge from the airport – fresh enough to trek. At the airport we are greeted by Tashi Delek everywhere, hands folded, meaning – may your coming be auspicious to our country – welcome. Quaint! Thereafter greeting us is a burly Bhutanese driver come guide, even as he stands, hands folded, beside a plush car. He is Campchu, attired in his country’s costume to boot, it is the Gho, a knee-length robe some sort of a kimono that is tied at the waist by a traditional belt known as Kera. The pouch in front was used to carrying a dagger, and food bowls. Campchu is carrying his wallet and mobile in it now, and some betel nut, Doma, he enjoys chewing it he informs us. We don’t conceal our delight, and set off to Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan. His smiling mien, and an impressive array of Hindi words, the songs he plays on his car stereo – all wrap us up in a genteel manner. Within minutes of our drive, we are gasping at the clouds that chase. The air is fresh and unsullied. We hold our breath at every turn of a hill, witnessing the magical wispiness. There is absolute quiet within the interiors of our vehicle, a rare occurrence during a car ride en famille. 

Once in Thimphu, we are ushered into a simple hotel. The gateway is embellished, like most gates seem to be, we later observe. The ladies at the reception, yet again, are in traditional attire – the Kira, a long, ankle-length dress accompanied by a light outer jacket known as a Tego with an inner layer known as a Wonju. This elegance we witness, we wish to own. 

Inside the hotel, we are made to walk up three flights of stairs, and they are steep. The frivolous play of clouds continues outside the glass windows. Far away an imposing Statue of Buddha, beckons. By dinnertime, we are impatient to sample Bhutanese fare. However the Indian food served in our hotel buffet is severely disappointing. 

By the end of our trip though, we are addicted to Bhutanese food – Ema Datshi (chillies and cheese) and many different varieties of the same, momos (very different from those sampled in India) and red rice, often buttered, with a pleasant nutty taste, unlike brown rice. Cheese is made from cow’s milk called datshi and is never eaten raw, and infuses the sauces with strong flavours. Zow shungo is a rice dish mixed with leftover vegetables, and a lot of stews are at our disposal. Chicken and pork are favourite meats. Shabalay juma (Bhutanese sausages marinated in spices), and noodles are some favoured snacks. The buttered tea is a great way to wash it all down. We savour their food, again and again, as our taste buds are tickled, teased and taken.

The hillsides, I had observed during our first drive, host a series of fluttering white flags on tall poles, in lots of twenties, even fifties. They flutter wildly, with the winds, almost ceaselessly. Later Campchu explains their meaning – whenever someone dies, these flags are planted on the hillsides as a mark of respect for the dead, be it man, woman or child. I am humbled. I view them with much reverence. The hills are dotted with many such groupings of fluttering whites. 

Our first morning is a lineup of unhurried activities: we are driven to the National Library and Archives of Bhutan, with the Royal family – captured in photographs, relics, and reams of written wisdom in calligraphic beauty. You name it, we find it – the Bhutanese culture aesthetically presented in a building that is not very large, much like everything else in this neat country. The size of the museum belies the magnitude of all that it houses. Whatever we actually envision is perhaps a minuscule of what is represented, centuries of trial and error, decade upon decade of sentinels against predators – against the onslaught of mankind itself. The Bhutanese are custodians of what we witness as their happiness in present day. We walk around dazed, taken in, aware that the four of us are separated by our individual fascinations. Once we have scoured the three floors, we come away knowing that Bhutanese Royalty lives well, humbly and enjoys the generosity of the bounty of nature. The people sure know how to respect and preserve nature, as it was meant to be. We stand quietly and view the royal palace from a hilltop, admiring its ramparts.

In Thimphu all day, we grasp the meaning of Dzong, a word that resounds.  There are many Dzongs in every town of Bhutan and the word conjures up the image of a pagoda-like building meant for quietude and prayer. The word literally means “the palace of great happiness or bliss“. It means being fully immersed in the present, breathing in every moment and counting each as a blessing. As I look around me, I see a play of harmony, and warmth in their countenance. Clouds afloat, with the sun, as playmate, in a perpetual game of hide-n-seek. The Bhutanese skies seem to excel at this frolic. 

Our next stop at the National Folk Heritage Museum takes us back in time. We hear huntsmen, as we hear the plodding of horses carrying them; we witness women pounding the millet and jowar, just as we observe many wooden mortars and pestles of varying sizes, some massive. The museum itself is maintained for real feel – no embellishments, no fuss over giving it a fancy makeover for tourists. The narrow and dark staircases, with creaking boards, ensure that you are seized by the past. Garlands of garlic and red chillies adorn the entrance to the museum. We are walking through war zones as well, and see the crude weaponry then employed to slay the enemy. The tapestries are fine and the crafts, even finer. We see how looms were used to their maximum potential because there was in fact nothing else to clothe the tribes. Sheaths of handloom, designed aesthetically, are still loomed by the Bhutanese people. They proudly don their traditional attire handed down the ages, stunning and intricate as they are. 

To our delight, we are driven to the Royal Textile Academy of Bhutan next. Daughter Ambika and I are completely taken up by the array of displayed looms. We could perhaps have just sat and meditated upon the weaves of silks and cotton threads, intertwined sophisticatedly. We have entered a world of impossible patterns, unique to Bhutan. Our minds plough through a labyrinth of motifs. The Bhutanese display at the museum of folk art shows off their creative brilliance.

Our appetites are whetted, and we are ready to go shopping. We want to adorn ourselves with that which was on display. But our chauffeur insists that we await the morrow. He tells us that the township of Paro, and not Punakha town, our next stop, is a far better city, attuned to shoppers.

Our drive to Punakha, on the following morning, takes us on a winding path up the mountains – frenzied delights – clouds as travel mates. They are all around us, as we ride the Bhutanese mountains, tasting of pleasures unknown. However, not the entire journey is smooth, since the rains have left their footprints in broken bits. It also continues to rain in fragments. We arrive at the highest point of our journey, and pause to take it in. It is suddenly wintry cold, as biting winds come at us.

We are at Dochula Pass, lined with stupas, in their monastic hierarchy, en route to Punakha town. This little halt gifts us a quaint café, offering cookies with its strong coffee, made in modern coffee grinders, while you are regaled by the lush greens, and resident cloud cover. Mesmerised as we walk up to the Stupas, and look across green heaven, we are dazed into a kind of trance. For a moment time is suspended between heaven and earth. You are still even as the chilly wind blows your hair about your face and threatens to knock the air out of your lungs. 

Oh, the magic of it! 

En route to the Punakha valley, during our gradual descent, we are encouraged to stop at the botanical gardens by our guide. The dense garden swallows us – we meander around, admiring the flora, getting deeper and deeper, sucked in by the magic of it all. It is luscious and very damp. We sing, and allow ourselves the time to resonate with the spirit of the place. The limitless greens are different from what we’ve known. Bewitched, we return to our onward journey. 

At Punakha, we find ourselves in a homely hotel with a vision of wondrous mountains facing us from every open window. It drizzles on. We spend a quiet evening on the benches that dot the hotel’s garden. Mystical strains of a flute-players magic keep up the magic. The air is drenched with more than the drizzle. We immerse ourselves in the experience.  

Punakha is a sweet little valley town where we visit Punakha Dzong. It is a truly handsome edifice. Again, we lose ourselves and each other in its entrails. Colours resound and lend to its being a photographer’s delight. The bridge that carries us to the Dzong is in itself a well-preserved Bhutanese ‘relic’. We are told that this Dzong, where their King was wed, had been restored in 1994. It was the administrative centre and seat of the Government of Bhutan until 1955. We appreciate the information gathered, but prefer silence. The Dzong also houses the sacred relics of the southern Drukpa Lineage of the Kagyu school of Tibetan Buddhism, a piece of information that excites me. The knowledge that I am so close to so much wisdom, is terribly enthralling.

Later we watch rafters on the flowing river. The Dzong is located at the confluence of the Pho Chhu (father) and Mo Chhu (mother) rivers in the Punakha–Wangdue valley. The ambience permeates our pores. 

Later we feast on momos, fried tomatoes and dried, roasted beans in Bhutanese style. The night is restful. 

Next stop on our Bhutanese trail is the town of Paro, and the ride continues to be as exquisite as ever. We have driven there via Thimphu. Paro is where we had landed. Paro is where we will shop, and Paro is where we visit the Rinpung Dzong, a fortress-monastery overlooking the Paro valley. This monastery, built at first by Padma Sambhava at the beginning of the tenth century, conceals a long and hard history.

Paro is also where we make the tenuous climb to Paro Taktsang (also known as Tiger’s Nest) a prominent Himalayan Buddhist sacred site and temple complex, located in the cliffside of the upper Paro valley.

Paro is the climax of our sojourn, and a heightened sense of adventure overcomes us. 

Again, like Punakha, in this valley town, dotted with Dzongs and such like, our night halt is at a sweet little boutique hotel. The food is a superb blend of western, Indian and Bhutanese fare.  An early start is a visit to Paro’s National Museum, and as promised, we are dropped off to shop to our heart’s content. Like lost cattle, we roam the main shopping street, and feast our senses. We shop joyously, fingering all objects of Bhutanese origin, then imagining it adorning our home. We willingly empty our purses on Bhutanese fabric, artefacts such as brass teapots, a turtle in golden stone, wooden beads, prayer flags, metal prayer bowls with carved mantras, and embroidered bags. The most befitting memento is a Prayer Wheel in Jade, which is a true prize. 

We turn in early since we are told that there is an arduous climb up to the Tiger’s Nest very early the following morning.

There are many legends that surround this Himalayan monastery, and Clint, a traveller writes, “The temple complex was first built in 1692 around a cave but it dates back to the 8th century as a mediation site. This cave is where it is said Guru Padmasambhava meditated for three years, three months, three weeks, three days and three hours in the 8th century. According to legend, Padmasambhava flew to the cave on the back of a Tiger.”

We are to begin the trek at 6am in the morning, armed with but our willpower and eager souls. Our guide tells us that it should not take us more than two hours to get up there, and less to climb down. What we find, leaves us speechless.

We start our climb rather merrily, with songs upon our lips. After an hour’s climb with great energy, we are breathless. Our guide is losing patience and wants us to speed up I suspect, such as he demonstrates. It is only halfway up, he reminds us. I am scared – will I make it up at all? By this time, we should have at least had a glimpse of the Nest. The children do not complain, but they aren’t skirting up either. The weather keeps up and doesn’t add to my anxiety. There is no path drawn, and it is rough. I watch people pass me by, some far older, and many on horseback. My pride doesn’t permit me to choose a ride. I power on, but with increasing difficulty. We finally arrive at a point whence a meandering staircase reveals itself, as does the monastery, the Tiger’s Nest, hanging off a Cliffside. It is the most unbelievable sight! It hits my gut, in a momentum that steals my breath away, even as I am forced to breathe harder. The exhaustion vanishes, and I stretch myself toward it, giving it my all. The green mountains behind it, in front of it, around it… they all add to the mystique on display. It is ethereal. Cemented to my spot as I behold the Nest. Heaven! I cannot for the life of me imagine how one would have built it, but that is all logic. This Monastery defies gravity. 

There is a certain reverence that overcomes a person, when one achieves what one considers the impossible. The air is awash with gratitude. It is crowded, and yet one feels the triumph as one’s own. I am alone. The arduousness of the climb bespeaks the tenacity of the monks. What inspires one to abandon ‘normal’ life and undertake such a life of solitude and hardship, I wonder out aloud. We wish to spend the entire day up there, after all we had invested all of ourselves to get up here. The exhilaration of the experience lasts up until one has to take up the descent.

After just over one wonderstruck hour we venture to undertake the descent. 

We make it down with difficulty. It begins to rain, and the mud beneath our feet glistens unsteadily. We take over three hours to return to our car, where awaits us our sulky driver come guide. One look at my limp and my husband’s crackling knees and he is all empathy. 

We leave Bhutan with a plethora of experiences, peace and many unanswered questions. Yet when we arrive at our city dwelling, the questions go up in smoke, leaving a profound sense of harmony in its place. We sense Paro, Thimphu and Punakha embedded within us, and Tiger’s Nest, that has made its home within our collective soul.