Activities and Adventure

Outdoor education

If you live in Bangkok, Kanchanaburi is on your doorstep. It’s stunningly picturesque, relatively inexpensive, easily accessible and has the most amazing clean and beautiful rivers running through its heart. I have a particular reason for knowing the water’s clean, since I work on the rivers most days and we check the water quality frequently for our water sports education business. The rivers and surrounding rural lands lend themselves to some wonderful outdoor education opportunities for the young and the young at heart. The River Kwai Yai offers all the benefits of outdoor education, from learning responsibility and building confidence through water sports, to the chance to soak up Kanchanaburi’s natural rural environment, and enjoy the flora and fauna all along the river.

Water sports and stand up paddle-boarding, in particular, engage children and adults in a unique way. Children, especially, love the feeling of control and responsibility that comes with journeying in a river environment.

If you look around, you’ll also find some amazing accommodation at very, very competitive prices, and none more amazing that the stunning Royal River Kwai Resort and Spa. There is plenty of evidence available that points to the positive mental benefits of spending time close to water and this resort absolutely checks those boxes, being right on the riverside, and offering elegant and comfortable rooms set amongst delicate Thai garden sculptures, all surrounded by local trees, shrubs and flowers. The pool is perfect, whether you like a morning exercise regime, a midday tanning session or a cooling late afternoon dip, while the food is exquisite. Going by its longevity, the owners of this resort seem fastidious about maintenance, keeping the resort’s appearance and functionality at a very high standard. It’s a
location that’s synonymous with romance and tranquility.

Kanchanaburi is full of places to visit and things to do, but one of the gems in plain sight is the natural world of rural Kanchanaburi itself and the River Kwai Yai, where the terrible Russian roulette scene was filmed in classic movie ‘The Deerhunter’. Reading one of the myriad books about the wartime history, or ‘The Railway Man’ by Eric Lomax to get a feeling for what the PoWs went through is recommended during your stay. The Hellfire Pass Interpretive Centre is another must for those with an interest in such history and a poignant reminder that for every PoW who suffered, many more Asian workers lived and died constructing the notorious Burma-Siam Railway.

Hellfire Pass Interpretive Centre and Memorial Walking Trail is dedicated to all Allied prisoners of war and civilian Asian labourers (Romusha) who suffered and died during the construction of the Thai-Burma railway during the Second World War. Funded and maintained by the Australian Government, the interpretive centre tells the story of the railway, the construction and attempts to covey the hardship and suffering of those who were forced to work in extremely harsh conditions.

Hellfire Pass Museum Kanchanaburi

Apart from the centre and its exhibition, visitors are encouraged to proceed to the memorial walking trail. Audio Tour Guide is available to enhance the experience as you walk along the railway bed and cuttings. History aside, outdoor education can be as simple as taking your children away from the city and traffic to enjoy the peace and serenity of a location, just enjoying pointing out things of interest and, crucially, unplugging from tech for a while. It can be as simple as hiring a bike to go for an early morning rural jaunt, riding out somewhere for lunch, or reading a book in the
shade with nothing but birdsong around you.

Hellfire Pass Kanchanaburi

Kanchanaburi can get ferociously hot: late March to early May sees daytime temperature getting close to or even higher than 40°, so a nice pool or the pristine river offer important means to cool down. Beyond this period, temperatures throughout the rest of the year are very reasonable. Kanchanaburi ‘winter’ which starts around November and ends around the end of February, is very pleasant indeed – and campsites and ‘glamping’ sites spring up all around the region and especially up towards Erawan along the 3199 road (I advise getting in early before the hordes learn about this!). Don’t be put off, either, by the ‘rainy’ season, typically from around June to October. In my own experience here, it seems rare that it rains for days at a time -the rain appears more inclined to be a brief 30–60 minute downpour, as humidity builds during the heat of the day and the clouds burst in the cooler evening air, whilst pleasant temperatures mean you won’t freeze in the rain! In fact, the great benefit of the rainy season is that the clouds offer a degree of protection from the direct sunlight, though of course, you are still at risk of sun damage, so it’s important to take care, cover up and/or apply sunscreen, even on cloudy days. If you do choose to do something on the river, wildlife abounds: with diverse bird, mammalian or reptilian life, there is always lots to see on a journey downriver.

bicycle in Kanchanaburi

There are plenty of options for renting a bicycle in Kanchanaburi too. Go for it! Take care, check the bike over, but don’t limit yourself to the city. Try to get out into the rural areas. Cycle a few kilometres out of the city and you’ll find yourself amongst stunning scenery, with iconic mountain backdrops. Wonderful birdlife flits between the crops of rice, sweetcorn, sugarcane and lemongrass and more. Look out for the Asian Openbill Storks standing like sentinels awaiting frogs and Golden Apple Snails to appear – since these snails are both non-indigenous and consume the rice crops, the farmers welcome these graceful protectors of the rice fields.

Stand Up Paddle-boarding in Kanchanaburi

Schools, parents, organisations, and companies are increasingly using the outdoors as a means of team building and providing leadership opportunities. Stand up paddle-boarding is a great example of this, giving children and adults opportunities to engage with the process of becoming a leader, firstly simply by taking responsibility for oneself in ways that modern life doesn’t always require, through maintaining proper hydration, sun protection, and considering one’s own mental health and mindset, for example being self-motivated and optimistic about learning a new outdoors skill or through being determined when learning new skills or facing new challenges like paddling in a new or difficult environment and pushing through tiredness.

SUP Kanchanaburi

The next level of growth for leadership skills is through paddle board based expeditions, like Duke of Edinburgh (DoE) International Award Adventurous Journeys, is through rotation of roles of team responsibility like team leader, navigator, and safety lookout, with each requiring taking on different responsibilities for group progress and safety, while also taking responsibility for one’s own safety on the water, being aware of danger and one’s own capabilities.

Finally, leadership is cultivated through being part of a team, showing thoughtfulness, empathy or learning to appreciate and work with others, for example, communicating a skill effectively to others and encouraging them through an empathetic approach, particularly those who might not be as enthusiastic or skilled as oneself. Children and adults often paddle alongside less confident swimmers who might be a little anxious, watching out for them, building effective communication in games on and off the water or helping others onto the board or guiding them to make the ‘right’ decision. Team leaders may need to practise effective delegation during longer paddles (for example, rotating navigation duties or asking someone to look after the first aid kit) or simply learning to listen during opportunities for communication and compromise (for example for routes and safety). Everyone needs to practise selflessness (for
example, patience with young children) and recognition of safety and rescue techniques as being as important as games, skills and general fun.

Stand up Paddling Kanachanaburi

Perhaps most of all, participants all experience commitment and passion as they learn a new sport, whilst being accountable (for example, for one’s own safety, especially valid for youngsters) and making choices and decisions, all with the guidance of an instructor present.

We try to hit the mark with a mix of skills and nature-based activities along the river or out on rural bike rides. We offer a range of activities for all ages and abilities. Most people that try stand up paddle-boarding for the first time are surprised at how easy it is. We prioritise knowledge of safety, rescue, equipment and above all, respecting nature and the river while on the water. A large number of companies have come to us for team-building and we welcome students from many new and established Thai and international schools in the region. We are delighted to give everyone a break from technology and being ‘connected’ – the only connection you’ll experience is with the board, the river, those around you and with nature. It’s a very contemplative experience that engages your whole body and it’s open to old and young alike.

The benefits are not just mental and social. Physical improvements start with an improvement in balance, which has a knock-on effect on activities outside the water. Stand up paddle-boarding also provides the paddler with a full body workout because almost every muscle in the body is used at some point during paddle boarding. If you are weak or healing from an injury to your muscles and joints, paddle-boarding is an excellent exercise to increase strength gently.
You’ll also have improved cardiovascular health and better endurance. After spending a day out on a paddle-board, you might feel tired but you’ll sleep well. Above all, being out on the water is calming: engaging with nature can have a positive effect on your mental health and attitude, and getting some extra vitamin D from the sun is good for you too, providing you take it in moderation.

With that in mind, we offer various adventurous journeys and expeditions along the River Kwai Yaior Kwai Noi, which under controlled guidelines can count toward the Duke of Edinburgh’s International Award. Our team can provide Bronze, Silver or Gold level Adventurous Journeys, along with Bronze Level hikes in stunning rural Kanchanaburi. Our team is flexible, meticulous and dedicated to providing you with a lifelong memory of beautiful rural Thailand.

On our carefully planned routes, we try to show you the best of what Kanchanaburi has to offer, from rural cycling along farm tracks to paddle-boarding along its incredible rivers, no matter what your level is.

SUP Hire (Thailand), Co., Ltd www.supkanchanaburi.com

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Tomorrow Saturday 11th of January is Children’s Day in Thailand.  Children’s day is celebrated annually in honor of children all over the world. The actual day for this celebration varies by country. In Thailand National Children’s Day “Wan Dek” in Thai, is celebrated on the second Saturday of January every year.

The prime minister of Thailand K. Prayut Chan-o-cha commemorates the day by giving each Children’s Day a theme and a slogan.

The Slogan for Children’s Day 2020 is,

 “Modern-Day Children to Pursue Solidarity and Be Aware of Civic Duties.”

A great way to celebrate Children’s Day is by taking children out to have fun. So many places in Bangkok are doing special events to honor the day and for families to come and celebrate their children. We are sharing with you some of these events here.

Have a very Happy Children’s day.

1. KIDS GO GREEN By Kiddeepass x Patom

2. KIDS CARNIVAL 2020 @The Crystal (Ekamai – Ramindra)

For more information: https://www.facebook.com/events/518152495465115/

3. JUNGLE JOURNEY @ K village


For more information: https://www.facebook.com/kvillagebkk/

4. THE FOREST RANGER @ Forest Learning Center in the city By the Institute of Plantation and Ecology, PTT.

TRANSALATION- The Forest Ranger Episode -Exploring the Tree Kingdom.  They say- “The adventure has started again.  When we the wild people in the city will take travelers to explore the mysterious land to find answers and unlock secrets about Khun Tree at Children’s Day Festival”
Saturday, January 11, 2020 9:00 am-4:00 pm
@ Forest in the city, Sukhaphiban 2 Road, Bangkok, Thailand
For more information: https://www.facebook.com/events/988003754899438/permalink/990999157933231/

5. International Book Exhibition @ Playville

For more information: https://www.facebook.com/events/2511639599159646/

6. CHILDREN’S DAY @ Vachirabenjatas Park (Rot Fai Park)

TRANSLATION - Bangkok Children’s Day Party 2020
“Bangkok children who love the environment get ready to be a good citizen “
Under the concept of “garbage free child day” have a fun day at Wachira Benchachat Park (Railway u)
There would be many prizes, learning activities and fun game booths
Saturday, January 11, 2020
Time 8:00 am-4:30 pm
For more information: https://www.facebook.com/BKKchildrensday63/photos/gm.2169762453330321/106965860799448/?type=3&theater

7. FAMILY POTTERY CLASS

Poteri Clay Workshop
PCHA Ceramic

If you want to avoid the crowd this can be a great idea. Have a family pottery lesson and spend the day being creative with your kids. There are many places offering group pottery lessons in Bangkok

Source: @ https://thailand.prd.go.th/ @ www.tasteofthailand.org

Keep in contact with us by following our FB page EXPAT LIFE in THAILAND

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Activities for teenager

It’s important that our teenager learn to rely on themselves for entertainment instead of constantly electronics or paid after school activities. Technology has a place and can be helpful, but as with anything in life… balance is the key to health and happiness.

It will be hard, but SO worth it… technology can be addicting to our kids and even for us (because it makes life easier when they are watching a show or playing a game on their mobile phones and we can be do what we want to do), but that is what makes it even more important that we break the cycle and limit it.

Below some ideas for teenager what they can do alone or with their peers together around Bangkok:


Superpark Thailand @ICONSIAM, 6th floor

Spanning 4,000 square feet, SuperPark has over 20 sport-based games and activities to take part in. It’s made up of 3 zones: Game Arena, Adventure Area, and Freestyle Hall, there is fun for every age.
www.superpark.co.th


The Movement Playground, Sukhumvit Soi 69

The Movement Playground is a fun alternative to a regular gym. At the Movement Playground are typically kids and adults of all ages at all times. When you are finished with your class you’ll leave with the biggest gift, “something you did for yourself and by yourself.”

https://www.facebook.com/AsiaParkour/

MPG Family Gym

Posted by The Movement Playground on Sunday, December 15, 2019

Thai Wake Park, in Lamlukka

TWP Lumlukka offer you an escape from the hectic city life with a nice laid back vibe. Enjoy riding with nature.

https://www.thaiwakepark.com/
https://www.facebook.com/thaiwakepark/?fref=ts

Thai Wake Park

Zanook Wake Park

Experience the best outdoor activities in Bangkok have never been easier! Enjoy either of our awesome activities:

  • Cable Skiing/Wakeboarding
  • Inflatable Aqua Park
  • Stand Up Paddling
  • Junior Motor Cross
  • Jet Skiing

https://www.zanook.com/
https://www.facebook.com/zanookwakepark/


Nongbon Water Sports Center (FB page in Thai)


You can sail, surf and paddle on the lake by joining the club and pay an annual membership for only B 80. You only need 2 profile photos. Around the lake is a short biketrack only 4 km long, quite nice.
https://www.facebook.com/bungnongbon/


Flow House, Sukhumvit Soi 26 at A-Square


Beat the heat and traffic with Bangkok’s only urban beach club. Flow House brings a full-on beachside vibe to the city. Ride the wave, enjoy fantastic food, sip cool drinks, and hang out. There is an intimate beachside groove here everyday from 10am to midnight.
https://www.facebook.com/FlowHouseBangkok2/
https://flowhousebangkok.com/

Shove it!!

Shove it!!?? tum_nonsee—————————⠀?‍♀️ Enjoying it at @ Flow House BangkokFree instructor & equipment providedat Join us now ?—————————Promotion Sun Set Surf580 THB Per 1 Hours (18.00-22.00pm)( This Price not including vat 7%)—————————For Booking please call our Hotline 02-108-5210Or please send your enquiry(Date / Time / no. of riders) toDesk@floweverthailand.co.thReservations Hotline open everyday11 : 00 am – 9 : 00 pm.#Flowrider #flowhousebangkok #ladyday #Ladynight #flowgirls #Ladiesthursday #surf #flowhousebangkok2 #njptgp #activitybangkok #bangkokactivity #activity #surfbangkok

Posted by Flow House Bangkok on Tuesday, November 19, 2019

Easy Kart Bangkok @RCA Plaza, 2nd floor

Experience the thrill of racing in one of the largest indoor go karting tracks in Asia located in the heart of Bangkok. Easy Kart Bangkok operate 7 days a week, 365 days a year, start opening at 1 pm. You will find 3 different kart models to suit your needs (kids model, regular model and fast model).
https://easykart.net/bangkok/easykart-bangkok/
https://www.facebook.com/easykart.net

Easy Kart Bangkok

Bangkok Batting Center, Sukhumvit Soi 31


Bangkok Batting Center offers batting cages with automatic ball pitchers. It’s a great place to practice your baseball swing, while getting in a good workout. The centre is Japanese-operated and there is limited information in English.
Regular rates are 100 baht (1 coin) for one game (25 balls). Each homerun earns the batter an extra coin. Weekday and weekend promotions available.
https://www.facebook.com/BangkokBattingCenter/

Bangkok Batting Center

Board Game Cafés

Battlefield Bangkok
https://www.facebook.com/BattlefieldBkk/

BoardVille Cafe
https://www.facebook.com/BoardVille/

Kopi-O Board Game Cafe
https://www.facebook.com/kopioboardgame/

More than a game
https://www.morethanagamecafe.com/

and there are many more. Just google Board Game Café and look which one is the closest to your home.


Outside of Bangkok

SUP Hire Thailand, in Kanchanaburi


SUP HIRE THAILAND offers a range of stand up paddleboarding and bicycling experiences from our base in Kanchanaburi. SUP lessons, bicycle hire and activities, sightsee, learn and exercise. Enjoy the activity early in the morning, enjoying the serenity of a fresh new day or come out for an evening sunset paddle, to take advantage of the lower temperatures.

https://supkanchanaburi.com/
https://www.facebook.com/suphirethailand/

SUP Thailand (not sure about English speaking instructors)
https://www.facebook.com/supstationthailand/

SUP Hire Kanchanaburi
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ONESIAM is a Global Destination of Extraordinary Experiences in Thailand. The premier entertainment attractions in Thailand and the best selection of restaurants in Bangkok all under the same roof.

If you are visiting Bangkok from overseas, having a day out in the capital or you are an international resident in Thailand there is no better one-stop destination than ONESIAM. No matter what your age, or the members of your friends, family or group, ONESIAM can provide the answer for a complete experience. As a global destination it has few rivals as the eclectic range of world-class brand names and the Siam Paragon department store has some of the best designed and well stocked emporiums in Thailand.

Gentlemen, leave the ladies to browse and they will shop to their hearts delight, just arrange to meet them at a designated location in a couple of hours or for lunch to take the shopping bags before they embark on a second sortie. Whilst you browse at your speed, find a comfortable chair to view proceedings or rest whilst they shop. For the children, of any age, there is something for everyone. On B1 floor Siam Paragon they have ‘Sea Life Bangkok Ocean World’ the only one in Thailand. This worldclass aquarium apparently showcases over 8,000 species.


Check out the spider crabs and octopus at Rocky Hideout or challenge yourself to take the Shark Walk where a thin sheet of acrylic underneath separating you from the five different species of sharks in a school, gam or frenzy! For the little ones KidZania Bangkok again the only one in Thailand allows them to experience different types of ‘role playing’ for the future – a firemen, construction worker, police officer and or a fashion designer. They even teach them the value of money with ‘kidZo’ – their very own currency where they get paid and have to plan and learn about money management.

Madame Tussauds

Paragon Cineplex

The Edutainment Zone on 4/4a floor of Siam Paragon immerses children in a learning environment and presents educational opportunities for both kids and adults to learn new skills in languages, the arts, music, dancing sport and IT. The world famous Madame Tussauds Wax Museum is also on the 4th floor of Siam Discovery, the Exploratorium. Have your picture taken with the stars of film, pop, politics and sport. It’s not just life sized wax figures but there are interactive activities along the way and the figures can all be touched and make great selfies with.

KidZania
Sea Life Bangkok

For the movie lovers amongst us the Paragon Cineplex, located on the 5th floor of the Siam Paragon, is home to 16 luxurious theatres showing the latest releases. The ‘Honda Ultimate Screen’ offers a laser projector and 4K projector or the Krungsri IMAX theatre screen which offers an 8 storey building height silver screen. Or the True 4DX theatre which offers a ‘real time’ experience as if you were actually part of the film with special effects including shaking, flashing lights and wind blowing. For those who have little ones, the Kids Cinema at Siam Paragon offers the full service to entertain the kids with movies and play areas. They even have a babysitter service!

Wandering on we came upon the Ecotopia Zone at 4th floor, Siam Discovery. Visitors can immerse themselves in an eco-loving lifestyle of over 1,000 products from more than 100 brands of eco-friendly products covering fashion, beauty, food, gadgets, stationery, home and garden decoration, all of which have been specially designed to be friendly to our environment. ONESIAM will definitely enable you to tick off your entire shopping list. For an exclusive shopping experience apply for VIZ card or ONESIAM-KBank Credit Card for a privileged shopping spree.

With all that walking, fun and entertainment you will need to stop on a frequent basis during the day to refuel and take on supplies and ONESIAM offers a host of coffee stops, dining and afternoon tea opportunities. Check out Charna, inspired by Thai local house’s balcony on the 2nd floor, Siam Center, with healthy food of organic ingredients delivered from trusted farms under the concept of “feel good food”. Or the famous Taiwanese original bubble tea store “Coco Fresh Tea & Juice”. To eat there is every cuisine known to man, but we settled for Jamie’s Italian Restaurant on G Floor, Siam Discovery from world acclaimed British chef Jamie Oliver. The menu was varied and suited all palates and ages, the food was delicious and they had even adapted some of the dishes to appeal to local tastes. The table was full of signature dishes which included cured salmon, roasted shellfish, crab, avocado bruschetta with mayonnaise. Pizzas, kinds of pasta and grilled dishes of perfectly cooked fish and meat. The children had smoothies, the ladies talked through the spritzers and the men enjoyed a mix of imported beers and wine. A good time was had by all!

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teenager activities

1. Bake something new from a cookbook.
2. Find something in your room that enjoyed when you were younger and try it again, just for fun.
3. Colour, draw or paint.
4. Play a board game.
5. Walk a dog (yours or a neighbour’s).
6. Call a grandparent (you’ll make their day).
7. Do a crossword puzzle, Sudoku, or word find.
8. Ride a bike, skateboard, or scooter.
9. Write in a journal.
10. Have a bath.
11. Do origami.
12. Play darts, ping pong, or air hockey.
13. Have a Nerf gun war.
14. Try to figure out how to fix something broken in your home.
15. Read. Find a book in your house you’ve never read before.
16. Cuddle with or play with a pet. Teach them a new trick.
17. Go for a run or walk in a park.
18. Paint your nails.
19. Play frisbee or catch.
20. Start or tend a garden.
21. Do a jigsaw puzzle.
22. Knit, crochet, or rainbow loom.
23. Practice or learn an instrument.
24. Take your mom’s grocery list and buy everything.
25. Make a bucket list. See if you can set a record at something.
26. Get the neighbourhood kids together for a game of tag football.
27. Paint a room.
28. Go through your drawers and make a pile of clothes that you want to donate.
29. Teach yourself cursive/calligraphy.
30. Make a scrapbook of your last year’s adventures.
31. Teach yourself to whistle using your fingers.
32. Go to the library or bookshop.
33. Look through family photo albums.
34. Make a photo collage for your room.
35. Play with sidewalk chalk.
36. Alphabetize the spices in your kitchen.
37. Organize your shoes.
38. Make a friendship bracelet.
39. Ask your grandparents about their childhood.
40. Shadow your parents at work.
41. Ask your parents about their first date.
42. Learn how to do henna designs.
43. Read a magazine or newspaper you have never read before.
44. Do an extra chore and surprise your parents.
45. Create a compelling argument about why you should get to use technology.

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Thailand holiday a bit different.

We all heard it before: “My holiday in Thailand was great!”. Many tourists and other travellers refer to islands, beaches, palaces, temples, street food, tuk tuks, parties and friendly local people. But there is much more to explore in Thailand. Let me share with the more adventurous amongst you a very different way to explore this wonderful country. An exciting visit you will describe with words like jungle trekking, sleeping in hammocks, exhausting ascents and descents, blood sucking leeches, stunning nature, backpacks and hiking boots, a team experience, local culture with, local food, an unforgettable experience for sure.

We, my friend and I, decided to join a ‘four days three nights’ trek organiszed by Bangkok360 to climb Khao Luang in Nakhon Si Thammarat National Park in South Thailand, organised by a licensed local tour guide in May this year. A small team of nine friends, locals and foreigners, mixed gender, from young to a more experienced age.

Khao Luang is the highest mountain in South Thailand and the summit stands at 1835m above sea level. The trek is the only way to that mountain top and it starts at near sea level, so you know what to expect. A flight or drive to Nakhon Si Thammarat is how you get to the starting location. A one night’s stay to get to know each other over a delicious local Thai dinner at Pi Bao’s guesthouse in the “Tea House in Rain Forest” follows. He offers very simple but coszy accommodation and sufficient time to prepare your gear and back-pack for an early rise the next morning.

But wait! You need to consider a number of things before you embark on such a trek. Are you fit enough? Can you take your kids? I suggest not younger than 14 years of age, or when ‘are we there yet?’ is not used anymore. Do you have the right equipment? You sleep in your own hammock, with or without a mosquito net is your choice. Do you have good hiking shoes or boots? You will be wet and so will your shoes. How much can you or should you carry?

I suggest not more than 15kg in a 70 litre backpack. It is humid and hot when you start. It can be cold, wet and windy on the top. You will meet leeches regularly along the way. You get used to them, no worries – and you wear leech socks and long hiking pants. You will be drinking water from natural streams. A filter bottle is a good idea. Water will be essential. There is no light switch in the jungle at night, a headlamp helps. Your toilet is the forest.

You have no phone signal either. Use the phone purely for photos. Power bank? Think it through, get packed and get excited. And The local tour operator can help you with advice and material if needed. After breakfast on day one, you load up for a short pickup car ride to where you meet the local team and park ranger at the National Park entrance. The local guides show us the way, carry food for the group and will cook most outstanding South Thailand dishes for us during the trek. The team pose for the compulsory ‘tai roop’, the first team photographs (we are in Thailand – remember) to document the moment for all.

Now you make that first step and cross the line into the jungle. The lush green of a most wonderful and ancient tropical jungle immediately embraces you and reveals its beauty, step by step. Fern trees, waterfalls and small cascades, delicate moss on tree barks, natural water streams with whitewashed stones to cross, hidden or more visible paths where you walk in line. The further you walk, the humbler and more silent you become as the forest and nature here has their own language and your senses start to listen. You feel the sweat dripping off your forehead, you feel the smile on your face grow and you start to see the glow in the eyes of your team members when you look at each other. You stop for necessary breaks to catch your breath, drink, assemble your strength, adjust your backpack or shoes. You are getting more experienced by the day. Four days to go, only forward, upward, then steep downward.

Lunch breaks are most welcome. Lunch is usually a small portion of rice with a smaller portion of meat or vegetable. You sit quietly or you talk with your friends, you enjoy the stunning views from the heights you have already climbed, you sometimes drop all but your swimming gear and sit in the stream just to cool down. You filter stream water and all fill their water bottles. Then, refreshed, you choose your position in the gang again – the fastest at the front, the more relaxed back of the line. Your personal energy balance must be measured and all will reach the night camp for sure. You slide back into the jungle’s green, grabbing stones, tree trunks, roots, anything when it gets very steep. You focus on your breath, you stop to take the most incredible pictures of landscapes, your friends in front or behind you, plant leaves, caterpillars, spiders, flowers of wild jungle orchids, the light beams entering the jungle, also of yourself sweating but still smiling, feeling free and happy. In these four days, nature will change from hot humid deep tropical jungle to fresh mountainous brush land with steep drops towards the top of your trek.

You will have 360 degree views with early wake up hilltop sunrise opportunities, you will have steep declines in the forest, partly sliding on your bottom or crawling on your knees. You gear up when it rains, you remove layers while moving down the mountain. You respect nature and the local cultural ways of living in the jungle, appeasing ghosts who allow you to visit their jungle and you do not name danger by its name to not jinx it. You learn to live the moment and to judge danger and act together, all depending on each other.

Every day, you will reach a night camp location. It is called so just because we stay here, though it is in the jungle still. Welcome to another great experience. Your legs are tired; your senses are wide awake. A first action is called for - you need two trees now. Which two trees are yours? The distance between them is relevant, the ground surface as well since your hammock will hang above it. What if it rains at night? Where do you put your backpack? Can you hang it up? It is day one and if you are not a usual hammock trekker, expect some learning curve. It is great fun and satisfaction once your fly sheet (your roof) is fixed, your hammock solidly mounted and tested. You are now ready for a wash at the stream flowing through your camp, while dinner is being prepared in a makeshift kitchen by your experienced local guides.

Dinner time! You can eat a whole bear, your body tells you that your batteries are depleted for today. New energy is needed. The team huddles under a large fly sheet roof, sitting on a plastic sheet on the floor, enjoying the most incredible Thai food dishes, prepared with skill and containing added fruits, vegetables and local plants collected during the trek in the jungle. Incredibly delicious and in a quality and variety which deserves Michelin stars. You lean on backpacks and watch the sudden sunset in the jungle, the change of lights, from sunlight to red to grey to pitch dark. You enjoy these views, you talk, share and hang around with the gang until you feel it is time to slide into your prepared sleeping bag inside your hammock. You view the pictures of these unforgettable memories each day pass through your mind. Your eyelids get heavy and you glide into sleep, satisfied, tired but happy.

The new day starts with the first light. It is a relaxed getting up, sometimes showering, brushing teeth or bathing in the stream, filling water bottles, packing up your ‘bed’ and your backpack, having another exquisite and fully cooked Thai multiple courses breakfast with multiple courses, coffee or tea. You will need the energy. Then you lace up and when your backpack goes onto your shoulders and you hear the click of the straps, your eyes start to shine, the smile slides back into your face, your eyes scan the environment and the beauty around you and there it is again – the first step of the new day. All in our team feel it!

Remember:
Leave nothing but footprints – take nothing but memories.

Useful Links:
FB Posts Marc Deschamps
Khao Luang National Park
TeaHouse in Rain Forest (Host is Pi Bao)

Bangkok360 (English)
Bangkok360 (German)
Bangkok360 FB

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Khun Jocelyn Pollak
by Jocelyn Pollak        

“Hey, you know what would be fun? Let’s run 21 kilometres, midday in 40 degree heat at the noncommissioned officer base in Hua Hin. To make it more fun, how about we do that run through the mountains, rivers, sand and mud and throw 30 obstacles in too!”, said no person ever. Until now. I’m saying it!

It was actually a lot of fun, hear me out, I’m not (totally) crazy. In October, I registered for a 21 kilometre Beast Spartan Race. It was against my better judgement (as are many things I do) because I only gave myself about two and a half weeks to train. I have a good base level of fitness, but this race isn’t called the “Beast” for no reason.

For those unfamiliar with what a Spartan race is, it’s basically a trail run with various military bootcamp-style obstacles involved. There are three distances: 7, 13 and 21 kilometres. The 7K has just 20 obstacles while the 21K has 30. The obstacles challenge your endurance, strength and sanity. You have to climb a rope, throw a javelin and hit a target, carry a heavy iron ball, a bucket of rocks, a log and a sandbag, climb walls and nets, crawl under barbed wire, swing across monkey bars and rings and finish the race by jumping over a row of burning logs. If you can’t complete an obstacle, you are required to do a penalty of twenty burpees which are basically a punishing combination of a jumping jack and a push up. Sounds like a nice little Saturday.

Despite living in Thailand for six years, I had never been to Hua Hin so at the urging of my Thai boyfriend, I finally signed up to do the race with him. We did a 7K Spartan race together last year on a team with three other Thai guys and it was a lot of fun, but I wasn’t exactly excited about doing that race 3 times in a row. I remembered the resulting pain from the 7K attempt and this time I made sure to splurge and get a good hotel to prepare for the race/recover from the race. At the recommendation of a good friend, I stayed at the Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas Hua Hin. It was incredible, absolutely incredible. From the moment I arrived until the moment I hobbled out of there looking like I had been thrown off a mountain, which I basically had been, every moment at the hotel was perfection. More on this saving grace later.

I spent the two weeks leading up to the race pushing myself in the gym trying to get my running endurance up. I knew there wasn’t much I would be able to do for my strength in such a short window so I focused on running, running, running to get my endurance closer to where it needed to be. I locked into the treadmill for several days for 90+ minutes which only ended up accounting for just over half of the total distance I would be required to run. Luckily, I’d have a partner to do it with me. Oh, never mind, a week before the race my boyfriend hurt his knee so change of plans, I’d be out there solo. Although, admittedly, I had an inkling that a mysterious “injury” might come into play so I trained as if I’d be alone… That’s a whole different conversation though. At least I would have a cheerleader/post-race driver and masseuse.

On race day, I made sure to take full advantage of the awesome breakfast spread at the Centara Grand. While normal me would have eaten myself to the point of shallow breathing, race day me was sure to go for a balanced breakfast of eggs, bananas and oats plus lots of water. My cheerleader got his money’s worth though and ate enough for the both of us.

When you arrive at a race like this, there is always lots of loud music blaring and an intense feeling of anticipation in the air. Everyone is all geared up, taped up and fully caffeinated. Adrenaline is high and there’s somewhat of an animalistic survival mentality that overtakes people. Two of the guys from my team the year before were doing it again plus a young guy on my boyfriend’s staff. Upon my boyfriend’s urging, they all agreed to keep an eye on me. The peace of mind was nice but the independent “I am woman, hear me roar” side of me was annoyed that I would have three boys tagging along for presumably the next 5 hours.

Our motley team of four entered the starting gate around 9:30, hot but not sweltering yet, and off we went. Within the first 10 minutes of what would prove to be a nearly six-hour death march, we had to cross through a muddy drainage ditch and wade through a swamp with water nearly to my armpits. Great, soaked and muddy from the outset… Our next few obstacles were 4, 5 and 6 foot walls which I am not strong enough to pull myself over; this is where the boys really come in handy and I was thankful to have them in tow. I’m sure they also didn’t mind it because they got a full handful of my butt as they tried to push me over the top. No one complained. After completing a few heavy carrying obstacles, we reached a split in the trail where the 21K racers had to go straight up a mountain while the 7K racers got to continue along the nice, flat paved road. I cursed my injured boyfriend.

The next three hours were spent hiking all the way up and all the way down two mountains on a one lane dirt path. It was basically impossible to run. So much for all those hours spent killing myself on the treadmill. This was actually my favourite part of the race though because there are approximately three trees in Bangkok and I miss nature a lot. Plus, I didn’t have to run. The canopy also protected us from the beating sun so it was a little cooler in the undergrowth. There were a couple water stations along the way with young military kids rotating big (warm) jugs of water for all the racers. Around hour number 4, we finally emerged from the jungle to attempt probably the most difficult obstacle of the race. Imagine hanging upside down like a sloth but then pulling yourself horizontally along an inclined rope, for 15 metres. Yeah, skip. My teammates could all do this one but I managed to give myself a rope burn almost immediately and I knew there would be more pits of stagnant water coming so I didn’t want to slough off any more skin than was necessary.

At this point is also when one of my teammates got a wicked calf cramp and couldn’t move. I was completely useless other than to wait around as moral support. Su su na. After about 40 minutes of stretching, water and rest, Honda and I decided to keep going while the other two waited either for the cramp to go away or for a medical pick up. Unlike the Thais, I wasn’t wearing head to toe spandex to protect my skin and I was starting to get sunburned so I needed to get through these last 5K of exposed running quickly.

Honda and I continued on our way, a fantastically unlikely duo. This part of the story gives me a little chuckle. Honda speaks maybe 3 words of English and my Thai is anadvanced beginner at best. He’s about 24 years old, I’m 33 so he’s just a kid in my mind. Plus, I’ve barely ever interacted with him. Despite all of this, we stuck together for the full 21 kilometres. We had some funny moments in the last part of the race where we just looked at some obstacles and then looked at each other and said “mai len” which translates to “no play” and continued on our way. At about the 19th kilometre, Honda started whining to me in Thai, I’m soooo hungry. Pretty fair considering A: He’s a boy which makes him hard wired to complain to a woman about this subject, B: We had been out there for 5 hours and C: 19 kilometres

is a pretty calorically demanding distance. I gave him some gummy bears.

Coming into the finish, there were 4 obstacles basically laid out in a circle so that spectators could watch the battered racers attempt to finish. As we approached the barbed wire, which we had to roll under for 60 feet, I could hear my cheerleader yelling at us in support. I think Honda was also probably relieved because his boss saw that he was the guy who stuck with the boss’ girlfriend until the end. We got through the last few obstacles and leapt over the burning logs to finish the race. After crossing the finish line and collecting my medal, adrenaline was running high. High fives all around.

I couldn’t feel any pain just after finishing the race, but 30 minutes later when I was attempting to get out of the car was a different story. The light at the end of my tunnel was the luxurious bed and incredible buffet dinner awaiting me. Thank God for the Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas Hua Hin. So, what was the final injury verdict? Two skinned knees and two skinned elbows, four purple toenails, four inch long rope burns on the inside of both calves, sunburn and too many bruises and blisters to count. Plus, my left knee was massively swollen from falling off the top of a six foot wall and landing squarely on a rock.

On the plus side, my boyfriend didn’t dare complain to me about his injury for the rest of the weekend. Here I sit two months later writing about the whole experience and my scars and toes still remind me of that day.

Despite all of the pain and exhaustion, I would absolutely do it again. I’ve done 7 and 21 kilometres, I’ve got to complete the trifecta with the 13 kilometre race and get my missing medal puzzle piece.

Next event is this spring, have I convinced you yet? Who’s in??

Thank you, Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas Hua Hin www.centarahotelsresorts.com/centaragrand

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After many years of flying east out of London we made the somewhat wild decision to throw caution to the wind and fly westwards to Costa Rica, the temptation to see a sloth in the wild was far too strong. Although having booked the flight I did feel a surge of panic, I kept thinking about how I would manage with food that doesn’t include coconut milk, lemongrass and the all important chillies. By the time we left London I considered myself to be quite the sloth expert, I knew that there are two and three toed sloths and that the only way to see them was to spend my whole holiday looking up into the trees.

Our arrival at San Jose airport wasn’t quite what I expected. There were at least 300 people on our plane and to reach the immigration hall we were either expected to pile into a lift designed to take 4 passengers, or go down a broken escalator which had a red cone in front it and a sign stipulating do not use. So we chose the latter and raced to immigration only to find the longest queue in the world, it took two and half hours get through, welcome to Costa Rica!

I started the holiday as I meant to go on, looking up honing my scanning skills, what I didn’t expect were a couple of diversions from below. The first being a 6.5 magnitude earthquake which luckily struck off the coast. I’d experienced earthquakes before, relatively minor ones but with this one, the balcony swayed back and forth, it was a totally surreal experience. Then following on from that with wine in my hand, I looked into the distance and saw a red sky and great blobs of redness flying into the air, it was a volcano providing us with a magical first night show.

Our next stop was La Fortuna and a smallish town at the base of the large Arenal volcano, which I monitored on a regular basis. While the town itself was nothing to write home about the surrounding countryside was stunning. Think nearly one kilometre high waterfalls and jungle walks galore. The area is awash with geothermal activity which is harnessed and there are a number of very posh and expensive hot spring complexes outside the town. The advantage of having such an abundance of hot water meant that when I moaned about the cold water in the hotel pool our lovely owner took note, then disappeared for a moment and came to tell me that she had turned on the hot water tap to warm up the pool, as yes I felt hot water flowing into the pool, bless the hot springs.

While I heard whispers of sloth sightings, I didn’t see any, but I mustn’t forget the toucans, the dog rescue centre, the green and pink snake and Proyecto Asis; a rehab centre that was well worth a visit. The information provided about the animals was fascinating, under supervision we were able to feed some monkeys and I found out that many of the fines for keeping wild animals at home were so low, approximately $100 for a jaguar compared to twenty times that for a speeding ticket. Somehow the balance here is very wrong.

“Santa Elena together with Monteverde was also home to magnificent cloud forests, iridescent hummingbirds, tame coatis and gorgeous vistas… What struck me about Costa Rica was the oasis of greenery, the sheer number of national parks, the array of the animals and the emphasis on sustainability.”

It was only at out next destination Santa Elena, high up in the Cordillera de Tilaran that I saw my first sloths. Just outside the hotel reception a couple were looking up at a tree, I raced over, and there she was (the hotel owner believed the sloth was female). I spent so much time looking up, that I developed a crook in my neck, it was hard to distinguish between her top and back end, all I saw was a ball of fur, but to me that was enough. I don’t think she moved for the 3 days we were at the hotel, but she was joined by other sloth that luckily posed for some photos. Besides sloths, Santa Elena together with the next door Monteverde was also home to magnificent cloud forests, iridescent hummingbirds, tame coatis and gorgeous vistas.

What struck me about Costa Rica was the oasis of greenery, the sheer number of national parks, the array of the animals and the emphasis on sustainability. We expected to see animals in the national parks, but we saw the majority just sitting on our balcony or in the grounds of our hotels. Whilst in Montezuma by the coast we stayed in a lovely hut, where a huge iguana sunned itself on our roof, an anteater climbed up the tree in front of our wooden balcony and the howler monkeys played behind the hut. While by the pool a good looking iguana posed with confidence on the stone frog statue.

We saw at least 40 different types of wildlife and on a very rainy day at the end of our travels, a sloth sneaked into our outside restaurant and proceeded to climb into the rafters of the rattan roof, what an absolute treat. I never expected to see so many sloths,so if like me you love wildlife, Costa Rica is the place to go, but if also like me, like chillies, take your own and sprinkle liberally.

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Mehal Meda, a small town in rural Ethiopia, is an unlikely place to find a current and former Bangkok expat. But sure enough, in April, I (the current Bangkok expat) journeyed to this small town to visit a close friend whom I taught English with for over two years in Thailand. In 2016, my friend Conor began his service with the US Peace Corps in the education sector. Essentially this means that he would spend 27 months teaching at a local high school in a farming community in central Ethiopia making just enough money to cover his rent, food and transport. When he was assigned to his post, I remember telling him that I was going to come visit and sure enough, two years later, I had the chance.

I flew into Addis Ababa the day after Orthodox Easter, which I didn’t realise would be a big deal until I arrived. In Ethiopia, everyone participates in a vegan fast for 55 days before Easter, which meant that I arrived precisely at meat o’clock. Restaurants were only serving injera (traditional Ethiopian spongy flat bread) and meat, mostly ox and sheep. As it is a major holiday, travel and life in general is not ‘normal’ which added to the, let’s use the word ‘excitement’, of trying to figure out logistics for the next 10 days.

Addis Ababa is at around 8000 feet so it enjoys relatively cool temperatures and lots of sun year round; except for the day I was there. Conor and I wandered the city, battling brief rain showers, and visited the national museum and a couple big churches. The break from the Bangkok heat and humidity was very welcome. Our dinner of all meat save for a few tomatoes was a fantastic introduction to Ethiopian cuisine for me. I had to eat with my hands which is obviously very different from eating with the ubiquitous Thai spoon.

“We had some amazing mutton with rosemary and spices in a local restaurant whose cleanliness would scare away even the most seasoned Thai expat. It was fantastic, probably some of the freshest, best meat I have ever eaten. Living abroad has definitely taught me to never judge a book by its cover in terms of restaurants.”

We took two days to go north to his site. There are no bus tickets or system so, needless to say, it was an “every man for himself ” situation to try to get a seat in the cramped van heading to Debra Brehan, our first stop. We were incredibly lucky and were able to get the front seats of a van and survived the dangerous speeds, sheep crossings and potholes and screeched into our midpoint destination. It was obviously time for more meat, so we had some amazing mutton with rosemary and spices in a local restaurant whose cleanliness would scare away even the most seasoned Thai expat. It was fantastic, probably some of the freshest, best meat I have ever eaten. Living abroad has definitely taught me to never judge a book by its cover in terms of restaurants.

I also have an iron stomach, so I suppose I can gamble more than the average person. The next day, we took a five hour mini-bus ride on a dirt road up to 11,000 feet and arrived at Conor’s home of 2 years, Mehal Meda, which translates to ‘centre field’. It is remote! My first day consisted of wandering the town and being the subject of the gaping stares of the farmers and townspeople who have never seen a Western woman. Minus the catcalls, the people in the town were welcoming and friendly. Within an hour of our arrival, we sat down with a 6’4” retired geography teacher for a lunch of, you guessed it, sheep, honey wine, real coffee and popcorn. They typically eat popcorn with coffee after meals; I was thankful for this ‘vegetable’.

Conor lives in a compound with a family of 4 and a maid. There is a water tap in the yard, a latrine and sporadic electricity. And it’s cold up there, with no heat; wool blankets were essential. Being off the grid for 5 days was a much-needed vacation for me. Since most people barely have a cellphone, it was so refreshing to sit and talk to people and not be interrupted by a bunch of messages. Children were playing with rocks and sticks and parents were paying attention to them rather than looking at a screen. It really puts into perspective just how far and how quickly we have drifted away from this critical human behaviour.

The next day, we headed out to a spectacular gorge about 5 kilometres outside of the town. Conor just kind of found it by accident because no one in the village bothered to tell him it was there. It was complete with donkey paths, waterfalls and spectacular scenery. We followed one of the goat/donkey paths down into the canyon and back up, which was literally breathtaking at 11,000 feet. That night, we found some tomatoes and onions and Connor whipped up his Peace Corps staple, spaghetti and tomato sauce, sans meat.

For all the primate fans out there, you may be interested to know that there are alpine monkeys living near Mehal Meda that are endemic to this very small area of Ethiopia. Gelada monkeys look like a cross between a baboon and a lion and chomp away on grass all day long. We hiked up a different mountain in the fog and were lucky enough to get right up close to the monkeys. I was jealous of their vegetarian diet. There are 3 researchers (2 American and 1 Taiwanese) who dedicate a year of their life to living in tents and following these monkeys into incredibly remote locations.

We went to visit their camp and to my surprise, while enjoying a cup of hot tea, I saw probably the most unbelievable sight of the whole trip hanging on the wall of their food tent. A Bangkok Bank 2018 calendar of the King of Thailand! I did a triple take when I saw that. Apparently, one of the researchers had been living in Thailand until early 2018 and brought the calendar back with him. Talk about small world!

My final day in Mehal Meda was all about market day and hanging with the local people in the town. I met one of Conor’s high school students named Betty who helped us navigate the market. Her father died of kidney failure when she was 7 and she wants to become a doctor. Her English was near perfect from speaking with the Peace Corps volunteers over the years. She lives in a mud house where her mom distills ‘Arake’ (moonshine) and serves the local drunks who stumble in to their house. Betty was truly inspirational. She was so strong and steadfast in her goals. Meeting people like that really makes you think more about what opportunities you have and how you are using them.

We spent the afternoon with Conor’s counterpart, Teshome. The counterpart’s job is to be a liaison for the Peace Corps volunteers in the town; it’s unpaid. Teshome’s friends showed me how to make coffee from start to finish – from green beans to a deliciously aromatic brew. Unbelievably, this was the first cup of coffee I have ever had, but that’s a story for another time. It seemed only appropriate to drink it here as coffee supposedly originated in Ethiopia. Plus, coffee basically became classified as a vegetable at that point so I was happy to drink it.

After a full day of travel back to Addis Ababa, I had one more night in the capital, where we decided to eat pizza and drink German beer. Local food was amazing, but for a Peace Corps volunteer who doesn’t get a chance to experience the luxuries of a city very often, pizza was a must-do. We reminisced about our times in Bangkok drinking Chang beer and what a totally different world we seemed to be sitting in at the German beer garden in Ethiopia. Since I was in Peace Corps mode (and Peace Corps budget), my trip was definitely not what the average tourist to Ethiopia should expect. There are fantastic world heritage sites and nice hotels catering to the more well-heeled traveller. If you ever have the opportunity to go to this beautiful country, go, but if you aren’t a meatatarian, make sure it’s not the week after orthodox Easter!

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It’s 6am and freezing cold as the sun peaks over the horizon and begins to light up the bush. The sky is clear as zebra wander past my lodging and I head out to join our guide who’ll take us on this mornings game drive, seeking out the big five – lions, elephants, rhino, buffalo and leopards. Climbing onto our vehicle, of course, painted in the obligatory fatigue green we place blankets over our knees which will eventually work their way up to cocoon our heads and shield our ears from the wind chill as our eyes poke out, scanning the surrounding landscape for any movement. The sun creeps over the trees and shrubs and warmth gradually brings the wild to life, although we’ll be back enjoying breakfast long before any benefit allows us to fully warm up.

It’s close to zero degrees and 17 degrees will be the pinnacle today. Heading out of the safe zone, an area fenced off to keep the dangerous animals out, the gates click shut behind us as we bump over the cattle grid and head out along the dirt tracks. Now and then we stop and check out the animal tracks, looking for fresh evidence, noting their direction as we drive on eyes peeled. Springbok dart across in front of us and I recall the name from a menu recently, some of the most delicious carpaccio I’ve ever tasted. Is that wrong? Anyway that’s the only thing off any menu we’ll see today. More zebra stare us down as we pass. Most animals we see look directly at us initially, checking us out or daring us to approach. They will scatter if you get too close.

It’s quiet on the plains today. There are three drivers out this morning each keeping the other posted on sightings and whereabouts via walkie talkies. Our guide points out lion tracks on the road highlighting the difference between male and female. They’re fresh so we stay quiet and scan the shrub. This tease is energising in the cold however the lions are either well hidden or have moved on. Fresh dung by the roadside is a calling sign of rhinoceros.

There’s a difference between that of white and black rhino, because they eat different things. She likens the heap to their Facebook page where others will come and dump on top of the remains if they like them and beside it if they don’t! I don’t know how many likes I have today as we’re completely off the grid and I love it. Black rhinos are rare and recently one was released into this reserve says our guide with a tear in her eye. If not for people like her then our planet would be losing most species as poachers kill to satisfy the vain needs of consumers. The world loses one rhino every 8 hours! Rhino horns are like our fingernails she explains.

Do you really need them ground up in your morning juice to improve whatever you think this does? In the human world this is a form of torture. Try pulling out your own and grind them down instead… just saying. Keen eyes spot giraffe feeding on the leaves high in the trees in groups a little too far away but within eyesight nonetheless. Warthogs in bigger numbers feed close to the roadside and without fail hold our gaze. We’re always respectful and keep our distance. We skim the fringes of the lake where menacing eyes drift above the water concealing the bodies that lurk beneath as crocodiles seem to float effortlessly and a hippo and her baby clamber out onto the small island metres from shore.

It’s hard to believe they are responsible for more human deaths than any other animal. Don’t be fooled by their size or apparently sluggish nature. They are fast on land and in the water they are deadly. Flimsy canoes are no match as they are easily flipped leaving the inhabitants precariously unprotected in the water. We stop for coffee and hot chocolate beside the water reassured that we are far enough away to avoid harm. We’re relaxed but never complacent. We are the visitors. We’re driving through thousands of hectares of bushland so it’s a lottery looking for needles in haystacks.

Calls from other trackers give us some direction but maybe today the lions, rhino and elephants are too far from the well worn tracks we are travelling. More fresh tracks taper off into the brush and most of the dung we come across is yesterday’s news, likes or not. Suddenly we stop and keep quiet, listening. Lions somewhere. The sound is enough to reassure us of their presence. On a drive last week elephants were so close that their trunks prodded jubilant onlookers. We’ve been warned not to touch any animals if they approach. Even those that are close enough to, well touch. We drive on in the hope that elephants will want to come up to us as we resist the urge the stroke their enquiring trunks. Not today.

Part of the realness is understanding that we are immersed into another world. An animal’s world. While we may take the same route to work each day or prefer to do things in a certain way, animals in the wild are both predictable and unpredictable. We’ve learnt about their habits and monitored behaviour patterns however they are driven by much the same as us. They will go where there is shelter, food and safety. Unlike most of us, they are nomadic or maybe like some of us, they have holiday homes in different places for different seasons. The vicinity is often the same but the dwelling may be different. They rarely dust of the furnishings when they return for the summer season.

Most animals on this reserve are monitored for protection with tracking devices. However few have access to the passwords in order to tackle abuse and limit rogue rangers. Recently a lioness was seen to be in the same place for longer than usual. She was discovered in a trap. The rangers are forever on guard. It’s now legal to shoot poachers to kill on sight. Apart from the obvious slaughter poaching leaves orphans and babies are often cared for by dedicated staff. Our guide has looked after a meerkat since he was orphaned when just a few days old.

The trust this little animal has for Therese is astounding. She truly is his mother now. However as a male he is threatened by males of any species. To put this to the test she puts him down. There are three of us men here today and he immediately goes in to attack the one of us with shorts on, legs uncovered. He picks up the scent of testosterone.

“Part of the realness is understanding that we are immersed into another world. An animal’s world… I’ll return in warmer weather and probably to a different place to experience the joys that Africa has to offer.”

“Get up on the table” she screams to him as he is a little surprised that this cute little thing has gone from cuddling his mummy to attacking the male intruder in a blink of an eye. He is staking his territory and it’s a reminder of where we are and who is in charge. We’re not here to roll up and snap photos and go. We’re here to enjoy the search and the experience the thrill of the hunt so to speak, without guns. I can now completely understand the skill required and the resulting excitement of tracking animals in the wild, the anticipation that goes with it, and the indescribable pleasure of discovering them. I cannot understand the egotistical, senseless need for killing them.

The zebra, hippos, wildebeest we see are a bonus and although it’s a little disappointing to miss some it’s reassuring to know that this is not a theme park ride where caged up and distressed animals beg for release while they are prodded or withheld food in order to appear or perform. “You’ll have to come back” our chef states emphatically as he scrambles our eggs and pours hot coffee to thaw us out. He’s right. I’ll return in warmer weather however and probably to a different place to experience the joys that Africa has to offer.

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