Kathleen Pokrud

Author  by Kathleen Pokrud 

Photo credit by Jenny Chan and Teresa Biesty 

When Kathleen Pokrud approached the embassy with the idea of publishing an article on Peruvian gastronomy, my wife and I were delighted to offer our immediate assistance, especially since the great rise of Peruvian cuisine in recent years has already made it a world reference.

When thinking of Peruvian food, the dish that will probably come to many people’s minds would be the famous ceviche. However, Peruvian cuisine has so much more to offer. The gastronomy of Peru reflects the wonderful biodiversity of the country: 84 of the 103 life zones on the planet are found in Peru. Separated by geography into three regions —the Andes highlands, the Amazon jungle, and a 3,000 km long coast to the Pacific Ocean— and with influences from European (mostly Spanish, Italian, and French), Asian (especially Chinese and Japanese), as well as African cultures, each of our dishes offers a unique history and distinctive flavors.

One of the staples of Peruvian cuisine is potato, one of the greatest gifts of ancient Peruvians to the world; 99% of potatoes cultivated worldwide can be genetically traced back to the Andes Mountains. Today, Peru has more than 3,500 varieties of potatoes, the largest in the world, and Lima is headquartering the International Potato Center.

In the last 30 years, there has been an increase in the popularity of many traditional and new Peruvian dishes. This boom is due, in large part, to the figure of a group of Peruvian cooks led by Peruvian chef Gastón Acurio and his belief that Peru is a “…great nation, with a great living culture, the result of centuries of métissage, and it is precisely this miscegenation that has made our cuisine a varied and diverse proposal that has finally captivated the international public”.

Today, Peruvian cuisine is recognized by the world, with many Peruvian restaurants included on the top of the World’s 50 Best List. In addition, Peruvian embassies all around the world are actively promoting the brand “Super Foods Peru” which consists of produces -capsicum, fruits, vegetables, grains, herbs, roots, and fish- that are exceptionally high in nutrients. Some of that Super Foods Peru is not well known yet in Thailand, while others, such as quinoa, blueberries, grapes, and avocados, are our important exported products to Thailand. Additionally, Pisco, the spirit of Peru, is another flagship product that Peru offers to the world.

I want to thank Kathleen for her initiative and hope that the article below will be an appetizing introduction for its readers to the fantastic and tasty world of Peruvian cuisine.

HE Fernando J. A. Quiros Campos

2017-2022

Ambassador of Peru to the Kingdom of Thailand

Peruvian cuisine is taking the world by storm with many restaurants in Peru now ranked among the World’s 50 best restaurants. Probably lesser known in Asia, documentaries on Netflix and cable food channels have started to raise awareness of Peruvian food culture. I recently spoke with Madame Ximena Rios Hamann, spouse of H. E. Fernando J A Quiros Campos, Ambassador of Peru to the Kingdom of Thailand, to learn about delicious Peruvian gastronomy.

Peru has been the winner of the World’s Leading Culinary Destination awarded by the World Travel Awards for eight consecutive years, from when the awards were introduced in 2012 until 2019, and in 2021. Our discussions included what makes typical Peruvian dishes so extraordinary and why it has become so popular among foodies as well as the culinary traditions of Peru, its undiscovered cuisine and how Peruvian cuisine is being exported with its cosmopolitan appeal.

Peruvian cuisine reflects the country’s history, with an exclusive variety of dishes. Madame Ximena explained, “The history of Peruvian cuisine dates back to the pre-Columbian, Inca and pre-Inca periods. The Incas are known for their unique agricultural and preservation methods. They developed their skills growing a variety of grains, potatoes, tubers and legumes on terraces, and these farming techniques have influenced Peruvian dishes up to the present. During the Spanish Viceroyalty, the Spanish brought African slaves to the Americas, and over the years, African culture influenced Peruvian culture. The slaves were talented in creating delightful dishes from discarded ingredients, and many of their creations have become well-known Peruvian dishes such as Tacu Tacu, frijol colado, and anticuchos (heart meat roasted on a metal or wooden skewer).”

Madame Ximena elaborated further, “The real gastronomic revolution of Peru arrived from the Far East when immigrants from Asia began to arrive. First were the Chinese, who introduced new frying techniques and ingredients like soy and ginger. Peruvian classic Lomo saltado is possibly where their influence is most evident as it is with Arroz chaufa, a rice-based dish that originated from the fusion of Chinese and Peruvian tastes. Later in the 20th century, when Japanese immigrants arrived to Peru, they introduced ways to prepare and cook fish and seafood, which has been elevated to an art form, as seen with ceviche (Peru’s national dish) and tiradito.”

Madame Ximena proudly declared, “Peruvian cuisine is one of the world’s best. Many dining venues in Peru are ranked among the World’s 50 Best Restaurants (https://www.theworlds50best.com/list/1-50). �?Central’ in Lima ranks fourth in the world, �?Maido’, also in Lima, is in the seventh place, and �?Astrid y Gastón’ is listed 4th in Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants (https://www.theworlds50best.com/latinamerica/en/the-list/1-10/astrid-y-gaston.html). There is a long list of Peruvian restaurants around the world that are publicized in the Michelin Guide (https://guide.michelin.com/en/restaurants/peruvian).” 

Lima is fast becoming the culinary capital of Latin America and a new global gastronomic epicentre. Peruvian restaurants are mushrooming around the world. Famous Peruvian chefs are building recognition on the world culinary scene. One well-known example is Pía León, who was recently named The World’s Best Female Chef 2021 (https://www.theworlds50best.com/awards/best-female-chef). She is now sharing her country’s flavours with the world.  At the same time, world-class Peruvian cuisine has resulted in an explosive growth of culinary tourism in Peru.

The cuisines of Lima, the North Coast, the Amazon, Arequipa and the Andes as well as Novo-Andean dishes are waiting for every adventurous tourists who comes to Peru. Peruvian food offers spectacular cultural and biodiverse combinations of cooking techniques and ingredients, brought to the land from across the globe during centuries of migration. One would say that the cultural diversity of Peru’s cuisine is what makes it so special.

Peru is a land of unique delicacies with its abundance of extraordinary resources and inexhaustible larder of agricultural products. “Our diet is full of superfoods, exquisite fruits, grains and vegetables - exceptional products that stimulate the palate and wellness of the body.”

Madame Ximena explained, “Peruvian cuisine is also about family, where recipes are prepared by grandmothers who hand them down to mothers or fathers and then daughters and sons. Families tend to meet very frequently and often at a table. La sobremesa, the time after a meal spent at the table, is a precious time as well. It’s the opportunity for everyone to talk, many at the same time, and most probably about food.”

Peruvians possess real talent in conserving their traditional culture while seamlessly adapting to modern culinary styles. Peruvian food is characterized by variety. The more popular world cuisines, like Chinese and French, pose no threat to the diversity and richness of Peruvian cuisine. Madame Ximena explained, “Traditional Peruvian cuisine is Andean food. The most common dish that has been prepared the same way for 500 years is pachamanca. Pachamanca means, “earth oven” in Quechua. It is magic and serves as a tribute to mother earth. What makes it most interesting is its cooking method. First, the “oven” is built by digging a hole in the ground where stones are layered to create a dome shape, and then they are heated by burning logs. After the oven is heated, ingredients are added in layers: first the sweet potatoes, potatoes and oca, and then more hot stones on top, followed by a variety of marinated meats, after which come the beans and guinea pigs (cuy). Then, the oven is sealed with leaves, cloth and soil and left to cook and simmer for around three hours.”

Due to the country’s geographic diversity, traditional Peruvian cuisine can be classified into three main regions: the coast (la costa), the mountain (la sierra), and the jungle (la selva). Peruvian food is often referred to as “Fusion food”, or comida criolla, due to its blend of Spanish, Asian, Incan and other European cuisine influences, which are integrated into the cooking. 

On the topic of modern Peruvian cuisine, Madame Ximena introduced Gastón Acurio, “As one of Latin America’s celebrity chefs, he is one of the most important Peruvian chefs who has contributed to making Peruvian cuisine known worldwide. In a CNN travel interview, Acurio stated that Peru is a mix of indigenous cultures, Spanish colonizers and many immigrants who have come to Peru — Italian, Japanese and Chinese — and our food is a reflection of that”. He famously declared that he wanted “our people to feel that we were not condemned to imitate others’ cultures or others’ cuisines. We have a beautiful cuisine that deserves to be celebrated around the world.”  Chef Acurio has achieved this goal with his empire of over 30 restaurants spread across a dozen countries.

She went on to say, “One of the modern Peruvian fusion cuisines is Nikkei, a combination of Japanese and Peruvian cuisine, using Peruvian ingredients but crafted by Japanese techniques. Peruvian and Japanese cuisine share common ingredients such as rice, vegetables and fish, which help create a natural fusion between the two. Nikkei cuisine a unique blend of meticulousness of Japanese preparation and presentation and the relaxed nature of Peruvian culture.”

“Novoandina is another modern Peruvian style cuisine. Dishes contain traditional, native ingredients such as quinoa, maca and yacón prepared in a modern way. One of the first restaurants to introduce Novoandina cuisine is �?Las Brujas de Cachiche’ in Lima, which only serves dishes that were originally prepared in the Inca period.”

Popular Peruvian dishes

Madame Ximena recommended, “The most authentic Peruvian specialties are to be found back home. Popular Peruvian dishes are made of four main groups, namely potatoes and roots; fish and seafood; quinoa and other cereals; and �?cuy’, guinea pig, which is part of our dietary tradition.”

Potatoes originated in Peru. For centuries, potatoes were an important staple and primary energy source for Andean cultures. It is estimated that there are over 3,500 varieties. They differ in colour, shape, size, skin texture and taste, but all play a vital role in the Peruvian cuisine. Known as Causa, derived from the old Incan Quechua word kausaq, potato, its name means “giver of life.” In the most basic form, potatoes are served cold mashed, layered like a lasagne with avocado, hardboiled eggs and tomatoes, for example. 

Ceviche is Peru’s national dish, which can be found almost in every restaurant there. There are lots of variations, but the original is sea bass soaked in lime juice, onion, salt and hot chillies. It is then served with a side dish of sweet potatoes and corn.

Peru is one of the most bio diverse places on earth, producing a vast variety of unique and nutritious foods. The most well known is the ancient Inca crop quinoa. Although often mistaken as a whole grain, it is in fact a pseudo-cereal, a seed that acts like a grain. Being a goosefoot, the plant itself is more like spinach and whole grains like wheat. It is often labelled as a superfood since it is not only gluten-free but also contains more protein, minerals, vitamins and fibre than many usual grains and seeds.

Flamed guinea pig has been a part of Peruvian traditional cuisine for around 5,000 years. The whole guinea pig is often barbecued or baked over an open fire, which creates smoky and crispy skin outside with juicy and tender meat inside. It is the staple meat of many households in the Andes while it seems unconventional to Western tourists who see this indigenous animal more as a domesticated pet.

Peruvian cuisine with its fusion of local and international flavours has gained a foothold in the global culinary scene. Although rooted in indigenous traditions, Peruvian cuisine has eagerly embraced influences from other cultures including European, African and Asian over the past several hundred years. The result is an exceptional fusion cuisine that reflects the nation’s multicultural history. 

As our interview draws to a close, Madame Ximena encouraged all readers to visit Peru, “Apart from Machu Picchu and our iconic scenery, please come and enjoy the pride and joy of South America, Peruvian cuisine.”

Story by Kathleen Pokrud

Photo by The Embassy of Malaysia and Tourism Malaysia

Foreword by Dato’ Jojie Samuel
Ambassador of Malaysia to Thailand

Once again, I would like to thank Ms. Kathleen for her initiative to help us to promote Malaysian culinary. Previously, an article about Peranakan food in Malaysia was published in Expat Life in Thailand. As a multiracial country, Malaysia’s colourful cultures are demonstrated through its food, including traditional and modern cuisines. 

Malaysian food is a mix of outstandingly delicious food and an affordable price tag to match, there is something for everyone. Eating out in Malaysia is a real gastronomic adventure. In Malaysia, eating is agreed to be a national passion for all Malaysians. Food has been a regular topic in conversation. I believe that there is no place that is more truly Asia than Malaysia, especially when it comes to food and travel. 

Needless to say, Malaysia is a beautiful and diverse country, which the food is a reflection of the many races that make up our country. From up north in Penang to down south in Malacca, you could explore the beautiful sights and even more delicious food at some of the best destinations Malaysia has to offer. Malaysia, Truly Asia indeed. 

Dear readers, I hope you enjoy reading this article. 

Malaysia is a country that celebrates its’ multiculturalism. This encourages the cultural diversity of Malaysian cuisine. Many culinary traditions coexist in Malaysia, such as Malay, Chinese and Indian. Similar to other countries, Malaysian food recipes are passed down through the generations and has evolved to suit modern day preferences and trends. The result is an array of enticing traditional favourites and modern offerings using a trove of local ingredients to suit multiracial palates. The term “Gastrodiplomacy” has been introduced to refer to how countries use their national cuisines to promote their countries. The Malaysian kitchen with their rich combination of spicy and flavourful cuisine is well placed to make Malaysia a food haven. I recently sat down with Datin Catherina Cherian Samuel, spouse of H.E. Dato’ Jojie Samuel, Malaysian Ambassador to the Kingdom of Thailand to learn how Malaysia is poised to be a gastronomical haven in Asia.

Malaysia as a country has brought together many different cultures. It is the heart of SE Asia. The food could be considered one of the most attractive and enjoyable experiences in Malaysia. I asked Datin Catherina what truly defines Malaysian Cuisine, “If there is one thing that unites all of us Malaysians; it is the love of good multicultural food that we have. Food has always been a vital part of the Malaysian identity. We pride ourselves on a variety of national dishes, which are consumed as a large portion of our regular diet. Malaysian cuisine includes Malay, Chinese and Indian food – a great mix of ingredients, techniques, and flavours. If you plan a trip to Malaysia, be sure to squeeze some time to explore the food. Also on the list of must try items are the food from East Malaysia which is located on the beautiful island of Borneo. The food there comprises of the bounties of the sea paired with locally grown grain, fruits and spices. Simple and fresh, the food in Borneo reflects the traditional knowledge of the natives of the land with influence from the Chinese and other immigrants who have called this mystical island their home for generations,

Catherina clarified further, “The food of Malaysia is known by the region they come from with each bearing its’ signature dish with unique taste and flavour. Some such favourites are satay with peanut sauce, asam pedas, kolok mee, nasi dagang, laksa and fish head curry. Rice and rice based noodles are the staples in Malaysian cuisine. As it is the norm in Asia, rice is usually eaten together with meat and vegetable dishes, curries and condiments. Malay food liberally incorporates aromatic spices such as cinnamon, coriander seeds, star anise, turmeric, nutmeg and candlenuts. Coconut is used in many dishes – rice, savouries and desserts. What gives the mouthwatering delicacies a distinct flavour is the skilful use of herbs such as lemongrass, ginger, galangal and leaves of turmeric, pandan and kaffir lime plants, In the northern states of Malaysia, the influence of Thai is evident in the preference for sticky rice, sweet desserts and mango incorporated in local dishes. In the east coastal states of Malaysia where fish is plentiful, keropok (fish snacks) are sought after by all.

On the subject on how Malaysian cuisine has evolved over the years, Datin Catherina explained, “The story of Malaysian food is part of the nation’s history, of course. From around the 12th century, the Straits of Malacca provided an important and busy travel route for merchants from China, India, the Middle East and Europe. They traded and exchanged their wares in the area that is now known as Melaka (Malacca) and Pulau Pinang (Penang). In the 15th century, Hang Li Po, a Chinese princess was sent to marry a Malaccan Sultan in an effort to strengthen relations between the two countries. The princess brought along an entourage of Chinese who settled in Malacca. These early Chinese settlers along with the Chinese merchants who plied that trade route ended up marrying local women and settling namely in Penang, Malacca and Singapore which later came to be known as the Straits Settlements. The Straits Settlements was the name given during the British rule from 1824 - 1957.

The British also attracted Chinese migrants to work in the tin mines of that era and to conduct business in the commodities such as rubber and spices. The early Chinese settlers contributed significantly to the prosperity and culture of these states. The food of the Chinese in the Straits Settlements is known as Peranakan food. They are delightful concoctions of Chinese food which include local spices and flavours, a testimony of how the early Chinese settlers had assimilated with the locals in the new country. Non Peranakan Chinese food has influenced Malaysian cooking through the wide use of garlic, ginger, rice wine, sesame oil and soy sauce.

As mentioned earlier, the fact that the fact that the Straits of Melaka was an important commercial route did not go unnoticed. In the 15th century, the Portugese invaded Melaka with the intention to monopolise the spice trade and spread Christianity. The Portugese too, influenced the food in Malaysia. There exists today the Portuguese settlement in Melaka which boasts of the food of their ancestors that has evolved to satisfy the tastebuds of their Malaysian descendants. Portugese devil curry, fish dishes and cakes are what we enjoy in Melaka. Following the Portuguese, the Dutch and the British colonial masters also influenced the food in Malaysia, namely in the Eurasian communities who make it a point to serve their traditional delicacies alongside rice and spicy curries!

Apart from the early Indian traders who settled in the Northern States of Penang and Kedah, the majority of the Indians and Sri Lankans currently residing in Malaysia are descendants of the people brought into the country by the British. A large number were brought in to work in the rubber plantations and the railways in the 19th century. A smaller group of educated Indians were later brought in to work in the local medical, educational and civil services established by the British. The Indians brought with them a noteworthy influence on local cuisine with curries, biryanis, roti’s and snacks such as murukku which are served at all festive occasions regardless of ethnicity.

Datin Catherina commented frankly, “I would say Malaysian cuisine deserves more global recognition than it currently has. It is not as well known as Thai, Korean and Japanese cuisine. Nonetheless, I believe that, real food enthusiasts will appreciate the true flavours and at the end of the day our cuisine always stand out among the �?foodies’. You have not truly experienced Malaysian cuisine until you thrill your taste buds with all the good food we have to offer.”

There are Malaysian restaurants in major countries around the world. One such popular restaurant is the Papparich restaurant that serves Malaysian favourites such as Nasi Lemak and Chicken Rice in Australia, Singapore, Brunei and in the US. In addition, we are proud of the Reunion Malaysian Café and Kitchen in Washington DC that has grown significantly since its opening, serving Nasi Lemak, Nyonya Laksa and durian crepes to homesick Malaysians and gourmet eaters in the US. In addition, we have Malaysians who are very passionate about introducing the world to the rich flavours of Malaysian cuisine. Food experts like Chef Wan, Malaysia’s celebrity chef and Ping Coombes, the past winner of MasterChef UK are prominent figures. We are very grateful to have them promoting Malaysia cuisine abroad. 

As it is with other countries, Malaysia’s food culture or trends must have changed quite significantly over time. Datin Catherina explained, “The Covid 19 pandemic has caused a drastic change in the lifestyles of Malaysians since early 2020, and this also meant a big change for the Malaysian diet too. It has  become quite obvious that Malaysians are increasingly driven by health concerns and want their food to contribute to strong and healthy bodies. We are seeing a trend towards healthier eating. Malaysians are  more conscious about their food consumption; hence healthy eating will continue to be a huge part of food trends.”

She elaborated further, “Given the fact that most urbanites have very little time to cook on a daily basis, the eateries offer pick-and-go food where such wraps, sandwiches or poke bowls on their way back from work or even during busy lunch hours. Malaysians are also known for their ”Mamak restaurant culture” and it is especially popular among the young adults. These are Indian Muslim eateries that offer fast service at reasonable prices. Best of all, they are open 24 hours a day,  making them an easy and convenient choice for people from all walks of life.

Preserving the traditional Malaysian cuisine and local favourites are important to us because they are part of our heritage, “With the new generation living a fast paced life and being more health conscious, traditional and laborious methods of preparing food need to be reconsidered. The challenges are to maintain the original taste of food whilst taking cognisance of the need to incorporate healthy cooking methods and minimising cooking time. As we are aware, food and tourism go hand in hand. Other than sightseeing, islands and beaches, the food offered has brought many visitors to our tropical paradise.

According to Datin Catherina, “The authorities such as Tourism Malaysia and Malaysian External Trade Development Corporation (MATRADE) have organised events around the world promoting traditional Malaysian food as an attraction to tourists. 

Nasi Lemak: National dish of Malaysia

In Malaysia, Nasi Lemak is what we would call comfort food. You can find Nasi Lemak in almost any eatery, be it at street vendors, restaurants and hotels. This humble dish comprising of coconut infused rice served with a spicy anchovies sauce has grown to include a long list of accompaniments. The most popular one is chicken and beef rendang. These chicken and beef dishes were, in the past, reserved for festive occasions. Comprising of meat slow cooked with aromatic herbs, spices and large quantities of coconut milk, it has found its way to the heart of locals and foreigners alike. 

As our interview draws to a close, I agree with Datin Catherina, “Malaysian food has similarities with those of its neighbouring countries such as Thailand, Indonesia, Brunei and Singapore as we use similar raw ingredients which are found abundantly in this region. However, in terms of tastes and flavours, cooking techniques and preparation methods our food differs. To the discriminating palate, Malaysia is a food haven not to be missed!