songkran thailand

How wet can you get? The obligatory Sonkgran soaking

Thailand celebrates its New Year, Songkran, April 13th-15th.

by Neil Brook

If you’re planning a trip to Thailand, then add this to the list of must-dos and be prepared. The streets are lined with vendors making the most of this once-in-a-year opportunity selling everything to keep you dry and everything to get you or everyone else wet. To really enjoy the spirit and atmosphere of Songkran, take to the side streets and immerse yourself into the culture and traditional celebrations as Bangkok turns into one giant waterpark.

Bangkok offers an amazing street culture at the best of times as food and drink stands pop up everywhere, bars opening to the footpaths tempting passers by. During Songkran in front of every business those usually hidden inside emerge to ‘bless’ those that walk by. As the day progresses people get more merry (drunk) and blessings turn from splashes to saturation. Floral shirts are the order of the day colouring the streets making it easy to spot your assailants as they fill pump action water guns with a range that will easily spray you from across the street.
Songkran bangkok thailand

Huge buckets are replenished with a continual flow as bottles of water are delivered or taps run freely. Snipers lay in wait as gun battles ensue moving targets chased and captured, the chaser retiring to reload and select the next mark. Hot rods pull up onto the curbs with music blaring in competition with others as the back of Utes provide mobile dance floors and colourful lights flash in sync with the beat. Revellers beckon offering a drink, sometimes beer mostly scotch and something, just to get you closer. Fly fishers casting their line tempting you to bite before the enviable water cascades from head to toe.

Songkran bangkok thailand

When you head out onto the streets during Songkran beware and be ready. Having taken a cab to get some shopping I decided to walk home. I knew it was coming and given the temperature it was refreshing. However, soaked is an understatement. I am not yet prepared with my plastic phone cover, I was planning my day tomorrow. Forget that, 13th -15th April it’s on, non stop. So holding my phone above my head, the first wave greets with water cups splashed front and back, the next with buckets poured. It’s difficult to avoid so I enjoy the cool sometimes icy cold water as it runs down my back. In this heat I’ll be dry before I get home.

You can traverse the street remaining dry, pleading and threatening as you go, however what’s the point? Public transport provides a cocoon, that is if you are huddled inside a taxi or car peering out. Tuk tuks and motorbikes are not immune. They will get you. Warnings go unheeded as those on motorbikes zoom by getting wet from guns and hoses aimed with uncanny accuracy. Streets are filled with celebration, people scattered along the footpaths music blaring, dancing, drinking and spraying.

Songkran bangkok thailand

Songkran is not complete without a visit to Silom Road, one of two major areas packed with locals and tourists alike. Here early in the morning people set up shop beneath the BTS that as the sun starts to scorch the earth will provide some shade. Toy guns of all shapes, sizes and colours, food, drinks and plastic covers to hang around your neck spill out of car boots and off the back of motorcycles clinging to every available space gradually spilling out onto the street. Ice chests are full as towering icebergs gradually succumb to the heat providing the water that keeps weapons refilled at 10/20B.

Traffic flow is reduced to a trickle before an eventual halt as the road is cordoned off, allowing the street party to take hold. The BTS will drop you just above the mayhem. Follow the crowds armed with pump action shotguns and phones dangling around their necks. From 12-12 people push together moving en-masse as DJs pump out the music while crowds dance holding hands and guns in the air. Gradually clothes stick to the skin as people sneak up from behind to ambush or blatantly corner you with buckets full of icy cold water.

songkran bangkok thailand

Getting home soaking wet with millions of other people is surprisingly easy. Tuk tuks line the end of the street four deep, filling and driving off, others replacing the void simultaneously. It’s a hard barter to get a good price. How else are you going to get home soaked to the skin? As we drive off the warm breeze starts to dry me off. Wishful thinking. Along the street others take aim, wet again and again and again … The driver is wet and for one final blessing he slows down near our destination and allows the cascade of water to cover me and him. Perhaps his tuk tuk needed a wash? I pay the negotiated fare plus half again.

Happy New Year. Home safe and wet.

Neil Brook will try anything once and agrees with the bizarre foods motto, if it looks good eat it! He now calls Bangkok home and is looking forward to discovering more of Asia, making the most of this opportunity. A regular contributor to the Aussie travel site The Big Bus Tour and Travel Guide he enjoys sharing his experiences, endeavouring to create a fresh perspective as he travels the globe.

@treadingtheglober  |  www.treadingtheglobe.com

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Expat Life in Thailand is a community lifestyle magazine for expatriates (a person who has citizenship in at least one country, but who is living in another country) living in Thailand with an appetite and a zest for the best of life!
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