Gyan museum, the jewel in the land of the Kings
This summer, I travelled to India alone for two entire weeks in the region o Rajasthan before my husband could join me in Delhi and visit the Taj Mahal in Agra to celebrate our wedding anniversary together. Three unforgettable weeks in a country full of contrasts, with a value system so remarkably different from that of the western world, providing so many unexpected surprises at every turn. To travel, we must open the mind and the heart, be receptive to new experiences to be able to understand other ways of life. No one goes to India and comes out the same way. India is a very spiritual place and so are its people. It transcends life; there is wisdom and faith that cannot be explained or understood without having been there. Travelling to India adds perspective to our lives, leaving a lasting imprint.
Rajasthan means Land of Kings. It is a region steeped in history with the early migration from the Aryans and the Persians centuries before. It is known for its magnificent forts, built for military defence purposes but also for the palaces of the Maharajas and the Havelis, the grand houses of the nobility. I visited the cities of Jaipur, Jodhpur and Udaipur. Female lone travellers are rarely seen in India.
However, with the help of a knowledgeable local guide and a good driver, there was absolutely no problem at all. Farooq, my guide, was a Muslim with a history major and could recite poems in Urdu, the ancient language of nobles and artists. Rishi was a Hindu from the warrior caste, very polite and capable of negotiating the maze of the local traffic. During this trip, I came in contact with Hindus, Muslims, Jains and Sikhs, people of different religions who coexist, each with their own beliefs and ways of life. Across all religions, we notice that family is the cornerstone of Indian society. This is the common denominator for them all.
When people think of India, they automatically think of poverty, the caste system, the vibrant colours and the explosion of flavours. Fewer people think of the decadent jewels of the Maharajas, the cultural heritage of beauty and opulence, the detailed and fine craftsmanship transmitted down from generations in the decorative arts. The Taj Mahal is testimony to this incredible skill and it is quite moving to see it in person.
As a trained gemologist, I really wanted to visit Jaipur because it is an important jewellery centre. Diamonds are traded mainly in the Belgian city of Antwerp, the current capital of the diamond industry and also in the Israeli city of Tel Aviv. Bangkok is also a major gem trading centre dealing with precious and semi-precious stones.
Jaipur is the capital of the state of Rajasthan in northwestern India, also called “Pink City” for its trademark colour of its buildings. It is best known for several Rajput Mughal architectural landmarks, with six hill forts on the Aravali mountains classified UNESCO world heritage sites, such as Amber Fort.
Jaipur also has a very ancient and rich jewellery tradition. In the 18th century, the ruling Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II founded Jaipur as the capital of Rajasthan, and drew the best jewellers and stonecutters from all over India to craft high quality jewels for the court, even for his royal elephants. Over time, the city built a reputation for having the most talented craftsmen in the country. Today, the prominence of the city in the global arena stems from the technological advances coupled with the abundant supply of cheap skilled labour, which helped transform Jaipur into a major gemstone cutting and jewellery-manufacturing centre.
Gyan means knowledge in Sanskrit. The museum is named after the late Gyan Dhadda (1940-2004)
Visiting the major jewellery street in Jaipur, where most jewellery is traded, it is noticeable that the industry is highly fragmented with most companies being family owned. The quality is quite heterogeneous, from the mass market products up to the very high end jewellery. It is at moments like this that life surprises us and warns us against preconceived notions. Farooq wanted to take me to a jewellery museum he strongly recommended but was nowhere written in the travelling guides. After some moments of doubt, I decided to take a leap of faith and agreed to go. And there, in the midst of dusty roads and honking cars, the museum suddenly comes to view. The moment that followed was absolutely surreal.
The building structure boasted clean pure lines. We pushed through the thick door and immediately, there was a feeling of being transported to another place and time. We might as well have been in Paris, London or New York. It was a first grade museum with all the aesthetic codes of the modern world.
“Gyan” means “knowledge” in Sanskrit. The museum is named after the late Gyan Dhadda (1940-2004), a gemologist and collector of fine decorative arts in antique textiles, jewellery, paintings, and much more. It is a private museum and gallery built by his sons, Arun and Suresh. They come from a traditional Jain family, several generations in the jewellery business, and most of all are art lovers who appreciate beauty in its many forms.
Paul Mathieu is a French furniture designer with a beautifully restored home in Udaipur, among his other bases in New York, Aix-en-Provence and Murano. The Gyan Museum was Paul’s first architectural project and immediately earned him international recognition as he won the prestigious AD50, Architectural Digest India’s award for the 50 most influential
architects and interior designers. Paul is an architect of immense talent, now with projects in several countries, in partnership with established international brands. It was a meeting of the minds when Arun and Paul embarked on this
creative project together.
Arun is a highly educated soft-spoken Jain, looking 10 years younger than his age due to daily yoga practice. Jainism is a branch of Hinduism that emerged in India in the sixth century, with emphasis on not harming living creatures and non violence. The Jains are extremely successful in business, contributing to almost 25% of the income tax of the country while accounting for less than 1% of the Indian population. Their success is due to their business ethics and solidarity in their tight-knit community where trust is paramount. Arun wanted to create a first-class museum to showcase his father’s collection without being confined by Indian standards, which is why he gave artistic freedom to Paul to realise his vision.
As we walk into the airy entrance of the Gyan Museum, we are greeted by the carved statue of Ganesh, an impressive single piece of jade in a beautiful shade of green. No other piece of decoration on the clean white walls, almost as if Ganesh was inviting us to go ahead and embark on a journey upstairs. Going up the staircase, we find ourselves in a circular structure, with custom built display cases featuring exquisite objects including textiles, utensils, manuscripts, antique jewellery. There are over 3000 objects that are constantly rotated for exhibition. The idea is to let the visitor wander around in this oasis of calm and feel the common thread of art an sensibility which permeates the whole collection. The exhibition flows in an interdisciplinary way through the custommade furniture, the storytelling behind each section, the water feature
conveying a sense of space and reflection, the clever illumination, all up to the levitating sink carved from a solid piece of marble.
The museum leads to the crown jewel: the showroom of this family business, with high end jewellery pieces taking inspiration from the museum collection. For the lucky few able to visit, there are exquisite pieces of high jewellery which are produced in the manufacturing grounds adjacent to the museum. This is a top-notch factory with the same standards as workshops in Paris or London. Just bigger, brighter and more modern. They are fully air-conditioned with rows and rows of designers, jewellers, polishers, and much more, all in uniform. Most important of all, they seemed happy, taking pride in their profession, working with the latest equipment available, including laser and 3D printing, and even their own foundry.
The Gyan Museum is a poetic little jewel in a city as dynamic as Jaipur. It gives us the feeling of being cut off from reality, living an alternative world envisioned by the brothers Arun and Suresh Dhadda. Incredibly, they managed to pull this off with the creativity and execution of the multitalented Paul Mathieu. The museum imparts a meditative feel as we emerge calm and serene before stepping back into the hustle and bustle of busy India.
To know that gems like the Gyan Museum exist, we need the serendipity of well meaning and knowledgeable guides like Farooq, for I have him to thank for this wonderful discovery.
Mei Chen Ledoit holds an MBA from UCLA and is a G.I.A. Graduate Gemologist and Jewellery Professional [email protected] Guide: Farooq Khan (mob. +91 94140 55735)
Driver: Rishi (mob. +91 95299 55576)
Gyan Museum: www.gyanjaipur.com, [email protected]
